Hills, Highways, Heritages & Hidden Places

Saturday, July 18, 2026

Vrindavan-Mathura--New Delhi Family Car Trip | in Three Days

Prem Mandir Vridavan, 17th September, 2025.

Last year, we went to Mathura-Vrindavan by car from Panchkula. It was a three-day family trip, where I acted as a car driver too.

My son was only 3 years and 5 months old, so it was my wife who had to act as the conductor while my son was the true passenger, allowed to sleep, play, and pass smiles to the onlookers in passing vehicles.

From Panchkula to Vrindavan

We left early morning at around 7:40 AM from Pachkula. The NH-44 (NH-1, Grand Trunk Road, the Kashmir-Kanyakumari highway are other names) was quite comfortable to drive on. We took a half-hour halt at Golden Hut Restaurant (Umri Chowk, NH1, Kurukshetra, Haryana 136131), from 9:17 AM to 9:40 AM for breakfast. I think it was quite a good experience. There were a few other shops to the right of the restaurant. Few toys caught Peeyush's eye, and I even thought of buying one for him, but then found the main glass door to be closed. The shop was closed for the day. Thankfully, he didn't throw a temper tantrum, and I negotiated with him, saying that I would buy him later in some other shop - partially a white lie because I just wanted to distract him from his current target.

To avoid Delhi's traffic, I bypassed Delhi and Noida entirely by taking the Eastern Peripheral Expressway at Rai, just past Murthal. The 135 km loop took me roughly 1.5 hours to traverse; I joined the expressway at Rai at 12:25 PM and reached the cloverleaf exit on the outskirts of Palwal by 1:55 PM.

Expressway travel requires a sufficient FASTag balance.

FASTag Top-up: Preload ₹1,500 to ensure a sufficient balance for expressway tolls.

Fuel Refill: Purchased ₹1,850 worth of petrol at the Indian Oil station (Kargil Shaheed Lakshman Balyan Filling Station) in Sonipat.

Fuel Rate: Approximately ₹95 per liter (exact price unverified).

As we left the expressway, Peeyush spotted a roadside diesel-powered sugarcane crusher stall. So we took another short halt.

The 6-lane expressways and then a quite good NH-44 made it easy for us to reach Vrindavan at around 4PM.

Vrindavan Stay (17th – 18th September 2025)

Hotel: The Grand ND Resort - Kanha Tulsi Heights
Cost: ₹2,318 per night (I actually paid that day)
Layout & Experience: The property seems to have been originally designed as a residential apartment complex. Consequently, the units are standard 2BHK or 3BHK flats. Since I only required a single bedroom and bathroom, the staff locked the second bedroom while keeping the kitchen and hall accessible.
Location & Proximity: Situated north of Kripalu Ji Maharaj Road and slightly northwest of Prem Mandir.
Pro Tip: The immediate vicinity lacks adequate shops and eateries. If you stay here, it is highly recommended to stock up on water and basic food items beforehand.

Hall with the sofas - inside the flat at The Grand ND Resort - Kanha Tulsi Heights, Vridavan. (17th Sept, 2025)

The kitchen's arrangement is next to the hall.

The bedroom - clicked next morning, 18th Sept 2025.

Corridor just outside the flat

The hotel, the Grand nd resort- Kanha Tulsi Heights, balcony view towards the south

A camera zooms in towards the Prem Mandir from the Hotel Grand ND Resort - Kanha Tulsi Heights.

Tried to locate the river Yamuna Ji from the balcony of Hotel Grand ND Resort - Kanha Tulsi Heights

On September 17th, 2025, to escape the lingering late-summer sun, we checked straight into the hotel room I had booked online during the journey. The property was a converted multi-story residential society—a clever move by owners looking to capitalize on Vrindavan's decade-long tourism boom. At ₹2,500 to ₹3,000 per night, a flat can easily generate ₹80,000 a month. Over an 8-month peak season, that yields upwards of ₹6 lakhs annually—an incredible return for properties that likely cost around ₹30 lakhs in the early 2010s.

The apartment layout proved to be highly comfortable and offered a view of Prem Mandir from the balcony. For the evening, I put together a quick itinerary: Banke Bihari Temple first, the Krishna Balaram (ISKCON) Temple next, and Prem Mandir as our final stop to experience it lit up at night.

Banke Bihari Temple - evening visit

There is a govt multi-level car parking on the Kripalu Maharaj Road, 500 m before the Prem Mandir. Personal vehicles are not allowed beyond. We parked the car in there, and then near the exit of the parking, the electric carts of white color were available, I guess a government-run service it was. The charges were fixed and a minor rate - I think not more than 30 rupees per person. In fifteen minutes, we reached the entry point of the Banke Bihari Temple walkway, and the time was 5:15 PM.

The white electric cart in front of the entry gate of the walkway to the Banke Bihari temple

A young girl offered us a tikka (tilak) on the street, hoping for a bit of money in return

After walking for about ten minutes, we neared the temple.

Within seconds of walking through the gate, Peeyush was tracking every single bright object in sight. When the entire walkway is a sea of colorful toys, trinkets, and flowers, keeping a toddler moving is a real extreme sport. 😂

Another sight of the walkway.

The local shopkeepers there are incredibly persuasive, aggressively pushing you to buy prasad and floral offerings. Personally, I don't feel these items serve a meaningful purpose inside the temple, though if someone has the deep astha and vishwas (faith and belief) that it truly reaches the Almighty, they should certainly buy them. To sweeten the deal, shopkeepers offer to look after your shoes. They sometimes falsely claim there is no government shoe-stand nearby to force a sale—a minor malpractice that has unfortunately become commonplace at major Indian pilgrimage sites, though we didn't let it spoil our mood.

Ultimately, I gave in to the persistent sales pitch and spent ₹250 on a prasad basket, which I later regretted. While I believe deeply in God, my faith is internal; I revere the Divine in my own heart and don't believe God requires material offerings. I suppose I just give in to social pressure too easily.

Navigating the Surge at Banke Bihari

From that point, the main temple entrance was still a two-to-three-minute walk away, a distance we navigated at a snail's pace due to the massive, surging crowd. When we finally managed to reach the core temple area, we saw the police managing the crowd and separating the visitors into distinct queues for men and women. Because Nisha was holding Peeyush in her arms, a police officer kindly pulled her out of the main queue and guided her toward an expedited path to the darshan area.

On the other hand, I would have had to stay in the standard men's line. Realizing it would take me a considerable amount of time to reach the front—forcing Nisha and the baby to wait for me indefinitely on the other side—I decided it wasn't worth the logistical hassle. I stepped out of the queue entirely and found a corner to observe the crowd while waiting for Nisha to emerge. The main deity of Banke Bihari Ji (Lord Krishna) is only visible from directly inside the darshan area, but I made peace with missing it this time. Before long, Nisha returned, and we made our way through the exit walkway back toward the shop where we had left our shoes. In total, the entire process from entry to exit took us about 20 minutes.

Photography was prohibited in the Banke Bihari Temple area, so I have no photos to share of the same.

As we exited the temple, we collected our shoes and walked towards the main road. By then, I guess my tilak couldn't withstand the steady downflow of sweat, as it had completely washed away.

We only had to wait about two to three minutes at the gate before catching an electric cart heading back in the direction of Prem Mandir.

Next Stop: The Balaram (ISKCON) Temple.

Right next door to Prem Mandir is another gorgeous property—the ISKCON Temple (often called the Balaram Temple). Since it was right there, we got off the e-cart right at the gates and headed inside to explore

Balram Temple (ISKCON) Vrindavan, 17th September 2025

As I have noticed at their other locations, ISKCON temples are well-managed. The complete absence of chaos and aggressive prasad sellers provided a welcome breather after our earlier experience. We leisurely explored the various chambers of the temple, spending about 30 minutes inside. In one particular section, visitors were encouraged to chant the Mahamantra—"Hare Krishna Hare Krishna, Krishna Krishna Hare Hare, Hare Rama Hare Rama, Rama Rama Hare Hare"—108 times. The ritual involves walking along a circular balcony, chanting the mantra once on each of the 108 steps. While it was a unique and engaging experience, it turned out to be quite hectic with Peeyush in my arms; he was growing impatient with our slow pace in the oppressive heat.

view from the road- Balram Temple (ISKCON) Vrindavan, 17th September 2025

At around 6:55 PM, we were outside the temple. It was easy to collect our shoes back with a well-managed tokenized system. Then we thought of walking towards the Prem Mandir.

An Evening at the Prem Mandir, Vrindavan

The temple is known for its beauty in its craft, its size, the intricate designs on the walls, the grand view from all sides, and the nighttime color play engineered beautifully. I read online that it was Jagadguru Kripali Ji Maharaj who laid the foundation stone of the temple in 2001 and subsequently got it finished within a decade. The temple cost around 150 crores rupees, $23 million USD, at that time.

Let me share with you the photos I clicked while experiencing the changing colors of the temple.

We saw a mega food court inside the Prem Mandir complex, but we only bought water bottles as we were not very hungry yet. The location was somewhat away from the crowd, so we sat there for a while before leaving.

Dinner and Back to the Hotel

By the time we headed out of the temple around 8:00 PM, we were in great spirits and really happy with everything we’d seen. We started walking back toward the multi-level parking and ended up stopping halfway to grab dinner at a roadside eatery. From there, we headed straight back to the room and went to sleep—nothing fancy, just a quiet end to the night. The next morning woke up to a beautifully cloudy sky. I was so relieved, knowing those clouds meant we’d get a break from the intense heat for the day ahead.

Peeyush is always the last person to wake up.

Mathura Temple - Krishna Janamsthan

The next morning, on 18th Sep 2025, at around 7 AM, we exited the hotel. The next target was Shri Krishna Janam Bhumi.

As we waited at the reception for the hotel manager to mark our exit.

As it stands today, Mathura and Vrindavan have only about two or three kilometers of open farmland left between them. I wonder how long it will stay this way. If buildings and houses completely take over that remaining empty stretch, it’s going to be impossible to tell where Mathura ends and Vrindavan begins. They might have a clear border line on a map, but on the ground, they will completely merge into one big city.

We reached the Shri Krishna Janamsthan in no time. It was early morning, and there was ample parking space available. Only 2-3 other cars were there, while I guess the space was available for 20-30 cars.

It is advised to keep your mobile phones and other things in your car. Check the map image below, follow the yellow arrows I have drawn for the parking. Then you can walk from here, along the green arrows which follow the road to the main gate. The Potra Kund is visible from the road itself. The police security is available at the main gate and also at the other places of the mega complex.

Visiting this place was truly a profound experience. As a child, I was an ardent viewer of Ramanand Sagar’s Shri Krishna on DD National, and standing here brought those vivid childhood memories flooding back. The iconic scene of Vasudeva Ji carrying baby Krishna out of the prison cell and across the surging Yamuna River felt completely alive in my mind. The complex itself is remarkably clean and well-organized, offering a peaceful atmosphere free from chaotic crowds or any sense of unease.

Behind the high walls of the main prison structure—marking the actual birthplace—lies the disputed mosque area, the red boundary. Shahi Eidgah Mosque in Mathura was built in 1670 AD under the orders of the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. Historical records suggest the mosque was built upon the area that originally carried a huge temple of red sandstone. I wish the temple were still alive in its original form.

In its current form, it is still quite beautiful, and because it is completely shielded from view from inside the temple complex, it doesn't detract from the spiritual serenity of the visit. I carried no phone because it wasn't allowed, hence I left it in the car, so no photos were taken. I wish I could spend some more time there, but I had plans to visit Raman Reti and then reach Delhi by evening.

Raman Reti:

Following Google Maps' suggestion, we took a shortcut from the Krishna Janmabhoomi complex to reach the Gokul Barrage bridge. Crossing over the Yamuna River, this bridge serves as the boundary between Aurangabad and Gokul, guiding us toward our next destination: Shri Raman Bihariji Mandir. This sacred site is widely revered as the place where infant Krishna used to play in the sand along the riverbanks, which is why the reti (sand) here is considered holy. We arrived at Raman Reti around 9:00 AM, finding a large parking lot situated right near the entrance. The approach to the main temple area is lined with beautifully maintained, lush green trees, making our walk into the complex incredibly relaxing and peaceful.

What made the temple so nice to visit was its sheer simplicity—there was none of that typical, loud drama from pushy prasad sellers. We took our time wandering around, walking right on the holy sand.

Before arriving, I'd been advised to ignore anyone acting like a priest and asking for donations, since a lot of them aren't real pandits and are just looking for a handout. Sure enough, someone came up to us and tried the same routine, talking aggressively and deceptively, but I was able to send him packing. Other than that one annoying moment, the trip there was fantastic.

We skipped going deeper into the main Gokul village to see the Shri Nanda Yashoda Bhavan this time around. Instead, on our way back to the car, we stopped by the deer park situated right across the road from the Raman Reti entrance, where the deer roam in a massive open space.

After watching them for a bit, we jumped back in the car and let Google Maps navigate us through a shortcut to NH-530B, which got us straight onto the Yamuna Expressway.

Saturday, September 13, 2025

Plan of visiting Mathura-Vrindavan in Mid September, 2025

So, with the monsoon season drawing to a close and mid-September already here, I have finally decided to visit another of India’s most celebrated spiritual destinations. According to Hindu scriptures, the birth of Lord Krishna in Mathura, inside a prison cell, is regarded as one of the most significant religious events in our tradition. His uncle, Kans, the ruler of Mathura, was determined to kill the eighth child of Devki the moment it was born.

This cruelty stemmed from a divine prophecy foretelling that Devki’s eighth son would one day be the cause of Kans’s death. Despite his many attempts to prevent it, the prophecy unfolded in mysterious ways. At midnight on Krishna’s birth, his father Vasudev carried the newborn in a basket on his head, crossing the turbulent Yamuna river from Mathura to Gokul. By dawn, Vasudev had returned to the prison cell, ensuring that Kans remained unaware of the miraculous escape.

When Kans discovered the infant in the cell, he attempted to kill her. But this child was none other than Yogmaya, who revealed that his destroyer had already been born elsewhere. This episode is remembered as one of the most mystical and powerful events in Indian belief — a moment where mythology, history, and devotion intertwine. Later, in Vrindavan, Krishna’s childhood unfolded, marked by his playful charm and his eternal love for Radha, which continues to shape the soul of devotional traditions in the region.

With all this in mind, I plan to set out on a 2–3 day trip with my wife and our 3.5-year-old child to Mathura, Vrindavan, and possibly Gokul, traveling by car from Panchkula.

I asked ChatGPT to create a travel plan for me, of three days, and it suggested the following to me.

🚗 Travel Plan (Panchkula → Mathura / Vrindavan)

Distance: ~400 km (7.5–8.5 hrs drive, depending on traffic).
Best route: Panchkula → Delhi (NH44) → Yamuna Expressway → Mathura.
Tip: Start early morning (around 5 AM) from Panchkula to avoid Delhi traffic. Take breaks every 2–3 hours for your child.

🗓️ 3-Day Itinerary (Wed–Fri)

Day 1 (Wednesday): Panchkula → Mathura

Start early morning from Panchkula.
Breakfast stop near Karnal or Murthal (family-friendly dhabas available).
Reach Mathura by afternoon (check-in at the hotel).
Evening visit: Krishna Janmabhoomi Temple (birthplace of Krishna).
Stroll at Vishram Ghat on the Yamuna River, enjoy evening aarti.
Dinner and rest.

Day 2 (Thursday): Vrindavan Exploration

Morning: Visit Banke Bihari Temple (best to go early as it gets crowded).
Visit ISKCON Temple (calm, neat, easier with a child).
Afternoon rest at the hotel.
Evening: Visit Prem Mandir (beautiful lighting after sunset, very attractive for families and kids).
Optional short rickshaw ride in Vrindavan lanes.

Day 3 (Friday): Gokul & Return

Morning drive to Gokul (12–15 km from Mathura). Visit Nand Bhawan, Chaurasi Khamba, and Yamuna ghats.
Early lunch in Mathura.
Begin the return journey towards Panchkula by early afternoon.
Reach home by late evening.

👶 With a 3.5-Year-Old: Practical Tips as ChatGPT suggested to me

Carry snacks, water, and a stroller/pram (temple premises may need carrying, but good for city strolls).
Prefer morning/evening darshans to avoid heat and crowds.
Choose a hotel with in-house dining (simplifies meal times with a child).
Use the Yamuna Expressway for a smoother drive, with breaks for your kid.

Now, the plan looks fairly good on paper; the real test will be how well it works out on the ground. I intend to share my experiences in a detailed blog post after the trip. On my way back from Mathura–Vrindavan, I also plan to stop in Delhi and explore a few places on Saturday and Sunday morning.

Wednesday, July 30, 2025

Finally, the Taj at 36: A Road Trip That Began with Karna Lake

As I neared the end of 2024, standing on the threshold of my 37th birthday, one thing struck me — I had never visited the Taj Mahal. Despite receiving a fair early education and holding a professional degree, I hadn’t yet made it to one of India’s most iconic landmarks. In a country so rich in history and culture, that felt like a glaring omission.

Especially once you're married, there’s a kind of societal nudge — or outright push — to visit certain places, and the Taj Mahal tops that list. For months, I had been toying with the idea of finally making the trip, but the plan just wouldn’t fall into place. Every time I checked Google Maps, it reminded me that Agra was about 470 kilometers away from Chandigarh. Not an impossible distance, but not a casual weekend drive either — especially with a 2.5-year-old toddler in tow.

Traveling with a toddler changes everything. Your best bet is always your own vehicle (or a privately hired one), because the baggage isn’t just suitcases — it’s diapers, snacks, milk, extra clothes, wet wipes, and the list goes on. Public transport, with its uncertain schedules and questionable comfort, just wasn’t an option.

The weather was another critical factor. Cities like Delhi and Agra can be merciless in the summer — heat, pollution, and endless sweating are the last things you want when you're carrying a child around. So we picked the tail end of September, hoping for bearable weather. Our journey spanned the last three days of the month and extended into 1st October 2024.

We planned to explore both Delhi and Agra during this trip. In Delhi, the Red Fort, Qutub Minar, and India Gate were on our list, with room for a few more if time and energy allowed. Agra, of course, revolved around one goal: seeing the Taj Mahal. Anything extra would be a bonus.

Since I was driving, transportation wasn't a concern. It was just a matter of time, energy, and a toddler’s unpredictable moods — the true wild card of any family road trip.

A Serene Pause at Karna Lake, Karnal

We started early from Panchkula, planning to stay the night with relatives in Delhi — so booking a hotel wasn’t on the agenda. That gave us the flexibility to pause when needed, and around 3 PM, we decided to take a break in Karnal.

Karna Lake appeared on the left side of the highway, just a short distance off the road while heading toward Delhi from Chandigarh. Google Maps showed an eatery right on the lakefront, and we were already a bit hungry — so it felt like the perfect spot for lunch and a leg-stretch.

Now, as I write this in late July 2025, I can’t help but reflect on the recent Swachh Survekshan 2024-25 rankings, which placed Karnal among the top three cleanest cities in India. Had I known this back during our trip, I might have explored more of the city rather than limiting ourselves to the lake.

The lake area was clean and green, surrounded by trees and walking paths paved for pedestrians and morning walkers. There was ample parking, but a school exam was underway at the nearby Delhi Public School, so the parking lot near the school was unusually crowded. Caught in that confusion, I parked a bit farther than necessary. We ended up walking to the eatery, and even though we later noticed plenty of empty spots closer by, the walk was actually refreshing.

To be honest, I don’t recall what exactly I ordered at the restaurant — I’m not much of a foodie. What I do remember is that our toddler, Piyush, wasn’t interested in proper meals or fast food. He was more taken with namkeen and Kurkure. The food itself was average, and it seemed like the eatery was privately run even though the property belongs to the Haryana Tourism Department. Even finding a toilet wasn’t straightforward — I had to walk over to a larger adjacent building just for that. I hope by now they’ve made the amenities more accessible.

But what made up for everything was the location.

From our seat, we could see the lake — calm, quiet, with white ducks gliding gracefully across the water. The trees and greenery surrounding the lake gave it a peaceful charm. After lunch, we took a leisurely walk along the paved path that rings the lake. Being so close to the ducks felt oddly calming.

At the entrance to a narrow pathway extending into the lake stood the statue of Karna, the legendary warrior and half-brother of the Pandavas from the Mahabharata.

The path resembled the radius of a circle, reaching toward the lake’s center but falling short. At its end stood a cluster of tall green trees and a small building whose purpose we couldn’t quite discern. We noticed many bats hanging upside down from the branches above — an unexpected but fascinating sight.

This short break at Karna Lake turned out to be one of the most serene moments of our road trip — a quiet pause before diving into the historical frenzy of Delhi and the majesty of Agra. It reminded me that even the unplanned stops on a journey can leave behind strong, peaceful memories.

At around 3:40 PM, we were back in our car, riding towards Delhi.

Night Stay at My Cousin Sister’s Home in Delhi

After our refreshing stop at Karna Lake, we continued our journey toward Delhi. As we approached the city from the Sonepat side, we began to encounter the familiar crawl of evening traffic. It was around 6 PM when we turned off the Budhpur–Alipur stretch (of NH 44) and veered onto Pushta Road, which runs parallel to the canal. Not long after, we took a quieter sub-Pushta road lined with trees, which led us towards Bund Road, which runs parallel to the Yamuna River. However, we were to take a mid-way right turn towards Burari, before the sub-Pushta road could touch the Bund road.

With guidance from my cousin sister (Didi) and her husband (Jija Ji), we navigated the narrow lanes of Burari and reached their home just as daylight faded. After Jija Ji helped me find a parking spot along the roadside, we settled in for the evening — catching up over a warm meal and hours of conversation.

It had been nearly a decade since I’d last seen my sister and her daughter, who was now grown up — almost unrecognizably tall. That moment of reunion, filled with laughter and nostalgic stories, felt truly special. However, Delhi’s night heat took me by surprise. Unlike the cooler evenings of Chandigarh, here the air was still and heavy, a reminder that summer hadn’t fully let go yet.

A Morning Stroll Along Pushta Road, Near the Yamuna

Dawn broke early. I was already awake, and with some quiet time on my hands, I decided to go for a morning walk along the Yamuna’s Pushta Road — a long stretch built on the embankment protecting the city from the river’s seasonal rise.

Though the sun had already risen, the morning air was still pleasant. In monsoon months, the Yamuna’s waters can rise dramatically, often brushing against these very embankments. But at the end of September, the scene was far more tranquil. Greenery stretched as far as I could see, interrupted only by rows of trees. From my vantage point, the river itself wasn’t visible — hidden by the thick vegetation and distance.

I realized I was quite close to the Yamuna Biodiversity Park — a protected green zone I’d heard of but hadn’t prioritized for this trip. Maybe next time, I told myself. It would be worth a visit.

There was no traffic on the Pushta Road, just silence and a gentle breeze, making it a perfect start to the day. Before the sun climbed too high, I turned back and was home before 8 AM.

Our plan for the day was to explore some of Delhi’s key tourist attractions. Unfortunately, Jija Ji wasn’t feeling well, so neither he nor my sister could accompany us. But we were excited to take on the capital city on our own — with a full day of adventure ahead.

Exploring Delhi: First Stop – The Red Fort

Even though we had to explore Delhi without our hosts due to Jija Ji’s health, we were excited to take on the capital city on our own — ready for a full day of adventure.
Looking back now, nearly ten months later, I can’t recall the exact time we left my sister’s home in Burari. But thanks to the timestamps on my photos, I know we reached the parking area near the Red Fort around noon.
What should’ve been a quick, five-minute drive to the parking lot, from the left lane of the Netaji Subhash Marg, turned into a frustrating detour. The traffic on the stretch of Netaji Subhash Marg running alongside the Red Fort was nothing short of chaotic. It was slow-moving, bumper-to-bumper — the kind of traffic that chips away at your energy and patience. I likely lost at least half an hour, maybe more, just trying to loop around to the Red Fort/Chandni Chowk parking lot.

Once we parked and stepped out, we were greeted by a different kind of crowd — the human kind.
The sidewalks along the road were packed. A dense mix of tourists, locals, rickshaw pullers, and roadside vendors made walking feel like a task in itself. Street stalls selling everything from cold drinks and snacks to souvenirs lined the way, narrowing the walking space even further.

The Red Fort Experience

Despite the pressing crowd and the unforgiving heat, the first glimpse of the towering red sandstone walls of the Red Fort filled us with a sudden rush of energy. We had finally arrived at its historic gates—a place that had silently witnessed centuries of India’s triumphs, trials, and transformations. The journey had tested our patience, but the thought of stepping into a monument so deeply woven into our nation’s past made everything worthwhile.

I had last visited the Red Fort back in February 2017, during a trip to see Surjit in Ghaziabad. That visit had been as a bachelor, and life was very different then. This time, standing at the Lahori Gate as a married man, the experience felt new and significant in an unfamiliar way.
By the time we reached the entrance, the sun was already blazing overhead, making the heat nearly unbearable. A long queue had formed at the ticket counter. I asked Nisha to wait under the shade while I stood in line. The situation there was far from orderly—some people were ignoring the queue altogether, trying to squeeze in from the sides. The counters were close together, and a few men from the adjacent line began pushing forward into mine.
I wasn’t comfortable confronting strangers, but I couldn’t just let it slide. I spoke up firmly, asking them to respect the line, and even called over the security personnel to restore order. It was an awkward moment—but doing the right thing often is.
With tickets finally in hand, we entered through the iconic Lahori Gate. Just beyond lay the Meena Bazaar, followed by the Diwan-e-Aam and the Diwan-e-Khaas—each a striking reminder of the fort’s Mughal grandeur. As we walked through, I found myself slipping into imagination, visualizing the splendor of Shah Jahan’s era. I pictured the emperor addressing the grievances of commoners in the Diwan-e-Aam, while the elite were received with great ceremony in the Diwan-e-Khaas.
I couldn’t help but wonder what it would’ve been like to sit on the famed Peacock Throne—crafted in gold, studded with precious stones, and graced by the legendary Kohinoor diamond. With every step through those grand halls, it felt less like a sightseeing tour and more like a journey through time. These forts have that effect on me—they stir up vivid, self-created scenes from history, pulling me momentarily into a world long gone.

Taking a short break — exploring every corner of the Red Fort can be quite overwhelming

One of the six palaces, on the eastern side, facing the Yamuna River, inside the Red Fort, 2024.

The ponds and water channels inside the Red Fort held muddy water — a quiet contrast to the grandeur around. 2024.

Piyush was already tired from walking through the vast green gardens of the Red Fort. Clicked as we exited through the Meena Bazaar, Red Fort, 2024.

Exiting Meena Bazaar & Changing Plans

It was already 1:35 PM by the time we exited Meena Bazaar—the historic marketplace once meant to serve the elite women of the Mughal court residing within the Red Fort. We strolled past the shops without much interest; most seemed to be selling souvenirs, and the heat had drained any shopping enthusiasm we might’ve had.

With the afternoon sun growing harsher, I reconsidered our plan to explore more of Delhi. Instead, we decided to head straight to Agra. If we left now, we could reach by evening or night, rest well, and then visit the Taj Mahal early the next morning—before the next day’s heat took over.

The Drive from Delhi to Agra

That drive turned out to be one of the smoothest and most relaxing journeys I’ve ever had.

The Yamuna Expressway Experience

The Yamuna Expressway, stretching from Noida to the outskirts of Agra—specifically, Kuberpur, as marked on Google Maps—was in excellent condition. It ran almost perfectly straight, with six wide lanes on either side, making the drive feel effortless, almost like slicing through butter. The smooth transition from the chaos and congestion of Delhi to the calm openness of the highway felt almost therapeutic—a rare kind of peace for anyone used to city traffic.

Hotel Booking

As we left the Delhi and Noida traffic behind, and entered the Yamuna expressway, I think it was already about 3 PM. In the evenings, sometimes the hotels' rooms become expensive and unavailable. Somewhere in the middle of the Yamuna expressway, we took an eating break, and I utilized the time to book a hotel.

Arrival at the Hotel Taj Resorts

I generally book the hotel only after checking Google reviews and other available reviews. I found the reviews of this Tata company's hotel, named 'Hotel Taj Resorts', to be very good.

I had booked the room for one night at a total price of ₹3,283, which included breakfast the next morning.
We arrived at the hotel just before nightfall and took some time to relax. The room was well beyond what I had expected—clean, spacious, and thoughtfully furnished. One of the highlights was the large bathtub in the bathroom. It wasn’t a jacuzzi, but it had a shower overhead, a separate tap for filling it, and a pluggable drain at the base—ideal for a long, relaxing soak. It was still a first for us to use a proper bathtub like that in a hotel.
There was a rooftop swimming pool, which came as a complete surprise—I hadn’t expected that at all. However, when we visited the rooftop around 8:30 PM, the pool was completely empty; no one was using it at the time. We weren’t bold enough to take a dip ourselves, especially with Piyush still being a toddler. It felt too risky, so we decided to give it a pass.

Curious about the in-house dining options at Hotel Taj Resorts, I headed up to the rooftop restaurant. The open-air seating offered a striking view of the Taj Mahal, which appeared as a dark, majestic silhouette in the distance. I had heard that it glows white under the moonlight, but tonight there was no moon—only the massive shadow of the monument looming quietly about 500 meters away. Even in near darkness, its presence was commanding.

Since we were staying only one night, I also wanted to explore food options outside the hotel. Plus, we needed to buy fresh milk packets for Piyush. So, I decided to step out, find a nearby shop to buy milk, store it in the room’s mini-fridge, and then head out again for dinner.

Dinner at Hotel Taj Plaza

Just 30 to 40 meters down the Taj Mahal Road from Hotel Taj Resorts, we found ourselves at Hotel Taj Plaza for dinner. The indoor dining area was decent, but we decided to head to the rooftop instead.
To my surprise, the rooftop view of the Taj Mahal was even better from here—closer, clearer, and more dramatic. However, being an open space, it also came with some drawbacks. Mosquitoes were quite a nuisance, and the heat—especially while eating hot food—was made worse despite the roof fans doing their best.
Still, the setting was memorable. Let me share some photos I clicked from the rooftop—the silhouette of the Taj Mahal under the night sky was truly something to see. While Taj Plaza also seemed to offer rooms, we weren’t staying there.

We returned to our own hotel, Hotel Taj Resorts, and had a restful night’s sleep.
I couldn't stop myself from clicking this beautiful swimming pool area on the rooftop, in the early morning, at 08:05 AM.

Hotel Taj Resorts’ rooftop pool — Agra, near the Taj Mahal, Sept 29, 2024

A Breakfast Beyond Expectations at Hotel Taj Resorts

The next morning surprised us more than anything else—the breakfast was far better than we had imagined.
Given the modest price of our stay, I hadn’t expected much. But the buffet spread truly exceeded expectations: generous in variety, impressive in quality, and the perfect start to our day at the Taj Mahal. From milk, tea, and fresh fruits to salads, boiled eggs, omelets, poha, bread slices, dhokla, idli-dosa, and parathas—what more could one ask for?
The dining area had a nice blend of Indian and foreign guests, all enjoying the hearty meal. Nisha even struck up a conversation with a Punjabi lady, who kindly offered us tips on how best to explore the Taj Mahal—our main mission for the day.
As we wrapped up breakfast and headed toward the exit, a few people near the Taj Gallery—an in-house shop within Hotel Taj Resorts—invited us to browse through their marble handicrafts. The collection included miniature replicas of the Taj Mahal in various sizes, from palm-sized pieces to larger showpieces for home decor. We picked up a small one as a keepsake—a simple souvenir to remember our visit.

The Taj Gallery was a unique feature I hadn’t seen in a hotel before, adding a thoughtful cultural touch to the overall experience.

Hotel to Taj Mahal

The distance from the Taj Hotel to the Taj Mahal is no more than half a kilometer or one kilometer. If I had been alone, I could’ve simply walked there. There were electric golf carts that charged 20 to 30 rupees per person to take visitors to the Taj Mahal entrance gate.

As we sat on the electric cart to reach the Taj Mahal's entrance. Other vehicles are not allowed around Taj Mahal, probably to save the monument from pollution.

We left our own car parked in the hotel parking lot and hopped onto one of those white electric vehicles. At the gate, the security staff asked for the identity proofs of every person traveling with us. I showed them my Aadhar card, and while I was searching for my wife's, the guard simply let us through after asking about our hometown.

Maybe it was in our Himachali faces that he sensed we were far from being any kind of trouble and trusted that I definitely had the card with me. Such incidents give me an unexplainable joy.

At the Taj Mahal

We had already said no to a few guides who offered to take us on a tour of the Taj Mahal. I resisted until we reached one of the gates leading to the green lawns overlooking the white marble monument. Somehow, I gave in to the persuasion of a photographer with a Muslim name—which I don't remember now because it's already been one year since I’m writing this paragraph.

As we entered through the Gate of Taj Mahal, the entrance was crowded with many people soaking themselves into the first full view of the monument, also it offered a perfect photo shoot point. That explains the crowd.

The photographer offered six hard copy photographs, printed within a few minutes. He asked us to pose a few times and clicked the photos. The cover photo of this blog post—the first one at the top—was taken by him. That da
y, I felt I shouldn’t have hired him, even though he charged
no more than 500 rupees. I think it was around 300–400, but I don’t remember the exact amount. Now, when I look at the picture, I feel it was a good decision. It's just that the personal time with family gets disturbed a bit because we’re not very extroverted.

Here was some of the creative poses he asked me to make.

After taking the best poses he thought suitable, he left us and promised to meet us outside the gate with the photographs ready in 15–20 minutes. We roamed around the huge white marble structure for about 30 minutes. I remember the view of the Yamuna from the back—it was beautiful. We didn’t go inside the Taj Mahal.

Piyush was already uncomfortable, probably due to the sun, and was crying intermittently even though we carried milk and water whenever he asked. I think we should have carried an umbrella for him. You should also keep this in mind if you travel with small kids, even in the October sun.

As we tried our best to make Piyush agree for a smiley photograph-

Few more clicks -

Finally, as we walked through the green lawns towards the exit, we saw a few squirrels under the shade of big trees. Piyush was happy to see them and played around for 10 to 15 minutes. It was such a relief to see him in a happy mood.

Clicked from near the exit gate, as we exited:

As we reached the exit gate

As we reached the exit gate, I had already contacted the photographer. He came to us within five minutes and handed over the photographs, and we paid him the remaining amount.

Exiting Agra

We reached the hotel parking soon and left in our car, thanking the guard for advising us about the parking. On the way to the expressway, before leaving Agra, I bought packets of Agra ka petha, the famous local sweet. Since we had planned to reach Delhi in the evening, one packet was for my sister, and the other we intended to take home for Diwali, which was a week or two away at the time.

The route I took on the return journey to Delhi was not via the Yamuna Expressway, but through Mathura and Vrindavan. I hadn’t visited those places yet, and I thought that if the weather, time, and my mood allowed, maybe we could visit them on the way back. Or at least, I could catch a glimpse of the city this time and plan a proper visit in the near future.

Evening at Qutub Minar, Delhi

Although we started from Agra at around 1 PM—and could have easily expected to reach Qutub Minar by around 4 PM—we actually reached there at around 6:30 PM. That’s more than five hours, thanks to the traffic jam we experienced inside Delhi, on the Mehrauli-Badarpur Road. There was some construction going on, perhaps related to the Delhi Metro. The road was fenced in the middle, leaving a narrow lane for vehicles, which caused heavy traffic.

It was already somewhat dark when we reached the Qutub complex. Thankfully, it was easy to get the tickets and park the car. The evening view we got there was beyond anything I had imagined—it was beautiful.