Trekking Story | Maigal to Murah Mata Temple

My recent trek to the Murah Mata Temple wasn’t just about visiting a shrine—it was an adventure into the untouched wilderness of Himachal’s mountain ridges. The journey was the true destination.

While roads have taken over as the primary means of travel, especially for the locals, this wasn’t always the case. About three to five decades ago, mountain treks were a part of everyday life. People used them routinely to cross ridges and reach neighboring valleys. One such forgotten trail lies on a Himalayan sub-range in the Mandi district—Janitri Dhar.

In our local Mandi dialect, Mandyali, "Dhar" means ridge. As is typical of ridgelines, Janitri Dhar offers views on both sides: Tungal and Kotli stretch out on one side, while the valleys of Thona, Baroti, and Rewalsar lie on the other.

This trek is not for the faint-hearted. The trail winds through a dense oak forest—what we call "bana ri rakh" in Mandyali. It’s a path that few have explored, making it all the more thrilling.

When you finally reach the Murah Mata Temple, perched high on the ridge, you're greeted with panoramic views that are nothing short of spectacular. To the west lie Sarkaghat and Dharampur, while Mandi and Kotli open up to the east. Look north, and you’ll spot the majestic snow-covered peaks of the Dhauladhar range. To the south, your gaze is drawn to the Naina Mata Temple, situated atop the Sar Ki Dhar ridge. Interestingly, Rewalsar Lake remains hidden behind the mountain that hosts the Naina Mata shrine—quiet, mystical, and waiting to be discovered.

Location of Murah Mata Temple(31.730188, 76.829173) w.r.t. Naina Mata Temple of Riwalsar, in Sarkaghat, Mandi, H.P.courtesy: google Maps 

Challenging Paths and Early Starts: Trekking to Janitri Dhar

To the northwest of Janitri Dhar, you get a sweeping view of the lower Shivalik ranges. Among these is a steep ridge that holds the historic Kamlah Fort, perched at a relatively lower altitude—but still commanding in presence.

Reaching the Murah Mata Temple atop this ridge isn’t straightforward. There are no roads, not even a clearly defined trail, making it a route unsuitable for solo hikers or first-timers. In fact, the closest village to the peak can’t be easily pinpointed. It could be Thona, or perhaps one of the nearby settlements in the Tungal or Kotli areas of Mandi district. Roughly estimating, all these locations are at least 9 to 10 kilometers away, and for good trekkers, the journey involves more than three hours of trekking through steep, untamed wilderness.

Our own trail began from Chori (Maigal), a path familiar to Shashi, my younger cousin. Our group of four included him, Naresh, and his friend from Una—all ready for the challenge.

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Preparing for the Trek

I had instructed everyone to begin the hike at 8:00 AM, which was the earliest we could manage due to some family events we were attending in Parasla, at Shashi's home. Though for Palasra, the sun rises behind the same mountain, its rays take a while to light up the slope we were about to climb. Still, I recommend starting as early as 5:00 or 6:00 AM, especially during May, to avoid the brunt of the sun and reduce the risk of sunburn.

There are no water sources along the trek, not even a trickle. Carrying at least 1 to 2 liters of water per person is absolutely essential. There are no homes, no tea stalls, no resting spots—so carry your own food, no compromises there. The only minor comfort was that mobile networks remained functional due to the lower elevation at the start.

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Into the Tree Line: Kafal and Baan Forests

We finally started around 9:00 AM, by which time the sun was already high and had us sweating just minutes into the climb. The initial stretch—about one-third of the trek—took us through open grasslands, devoid of tree cover. These patches are often used by local shepherds and cattle owners, and we passed by two animal shelters in this stretch.

Trekking across the sloped grasslands, tree line still ahead — en route from Maigal (Thona) to Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar, Mandi (May 2016)

As we moved ahead, the grasslands slowly gave way to the tree line, marked by the presence of Kafal (Bayberry) and Baan (Oak) trees—a shift in landscape that promised more shade, more challenge, and more adventure.

Our beloved Kaafal tree, laden with green and pink bayberries, on Murah Dhar (Janitri Dhar), Mandi — May 2016.

As we paused to rest, we found shelter beneath a cave-like rock formation—the massive boulder had a wider top than base, and its overhanging edge extended over the path, creating a natural roof of shade

Through the Forest and Closer to the Temple

As we climbed higher and reached the ridgeline of the mountain, the landscape began to shift. Deciduous pine trees started appearing along the narrow trail that wound its way toward the peak. About a kilometer into this ridge walk, we had a delightful encounter—a woman perched on a Kafal (bayberry) tree, plucking the fruit.

The tree was loaded with green and pink ripe berries, irresistibly fresh and sweet. We greeted her and helped ourselves to the berries from the lower branches—an energizing and refreshing moment amidst the steep hike.

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Arrival at Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar

As we continued, the trail led us through a mix of Kafal, oak (baan), and even a few rhododendron trees. The jungle grew denser, and we spotted a few wild birds, which hinted at the likely presence of other forest dwellers—rabbits, wild boars, bears, and perhaps even leopards. The path, in many sections, became indistinct or invisible, making it easy to get lost. It’s definitely not a route one should attempt alone, especially since the temple remains hidden from view for most of the journey.

Along the way, we came across two teenage boys resting under a massive stone boulder, large enough to shelter 10 to 15 people during rainfall—a natural refuge in the wild.

They had unwelcome news for us: there was no water source at the temple. Even Shashi, who had guided us, was unaware of this fact. We had carried just two liters of water, which had already run out, trusting Shashi’s earlier assurance that we could refill at the temple.

That turned out to be misinformation, and we were suddenly in a difficult spot. Luckily, the boys were on their way down and shared a little water with us. In return, we gave them the last few sips of our Coca-Cola, a small but much-appreciated exchange in the middle of a demanding trek.

First sight of Murah Mata Temple perched on the ridge, Janitri Dhar, Mandi — May 2016.

At the Summit: Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar

We finally reached the Murah Mata Temple around midday, just as the sun stood high at the zenith. Fortunately, a cool mountain breeze welcomed us at the top, soothing our sun-weary bodies.

At the summit stood a modest yet peaceful structure. Shelters (sarayas) had been built on the ground floor to accommodate visiting devotees. The first floor was still under construction, but a concrete slab with columns had already been laid out. Resting atop this slab was the small temple, a quiet sanctum dedicated to the Hindu goddess Murah Mata.

Despite its simplicity, the place carried a profound sense of serenity, magnified by the sweeping views and the spiritual energy of the ridge. 

Murah Mata temple, Janitri Dhar, Sarkaghat, Mandi, H.P.  --  May 2016

Life at the Temple Summit

At the base floor of the temple, we found a few simple but thoughtful provisions—an empty clay pot and a couple of blankets—clearly meant for anyone who might choose to spend the night there. However, no water supply had reached the temple yet, so visitors must carry their own water—there’s no alternative.

In the surrounding area, we noticed animal shelters, likely for goats or cattle that might accompany locals or temple caretakers. Just a few meters away stood a small Shiva temple, quietly complementing the presence of the Murah Mata shrine.

Animal shelters and Shiva Temple behind Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar, Sarkaghat, Mandi — May 2016.

Interestingly, the Janitri Dhar ridge also marks a natural boundary: Sarkaghat Tehsil lies to the west, while Kotlu Tehsil spreads to the east. From the temple’s height, the entire ridge line is visible, along with the vast expanse of the Baglu forest that stretches into the horizon.

As we stood there soaking in the spiritual calm and panoramic views, my four companions began chanting Sanskrit mantras in praise of the Goddess Murah Mata. I captured the moment on my cell phone camera, hoping to preserve the raw devotion and stillness that defined the peak.

View of Baglu Forest from Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar, Sarkaghat — May 2016.

View of the Kotli region from Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar, Sarkaghat, Mandi — May 2016

View of Thona and surrounding areas from Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar, Sarkaghat — May 2016.

View of Naina Mata Temple on Sar Ki Dhar ridge (Rewalsar), as seen from Murah Mata Temple on Janitri Dhar, Sarkaghat — May 2016

The Descent and a Fulfilling End

We spent about an hour at the temple, soaking in the peace, taking photos, and enjoying the simple rotis I had packed from my aunt’s kitchen. It was a humble but satisfying meal, made even better by the altitude and accomplishment.

With the afternoon sun now mellowing, we began our descent. On the way down, we gathered Kaafal berries, stuffing them into bags and bottles—whatever we had with us. These sweet, wild fruits felt like a reward from the mountain itself.

We finally reached the village near Chori (Maigal) at around 5:00 PM. The first house we passed had a water source, and I immediately drank nearly a litre—much needed after the long, dry return.

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Thank You for Reading!

Thanks for joining me on this journey to Murah Mata Temple via Janitri Dhar. If you enjoyed this trek, don’t miss my last adventure—a hike from Joginder Nagar to Bir-Billing via Winch Camp and Rajgundha. It’s a trail full of alpine meadows, heritage paths, and hidden Himachali charm.

Until the next trail—happy hiking!

Trekking from Raj-Gundha to Biling - A World Paragliding Site (Part 4)

Hi,

This was day four of this long trekking cum camping trip. For previous days' story, please read the last three posts on this blog. Till day three we had covered the trek from Joginer Nagar to Winch Camp and to Barot, with one night’s camping halt.

 From Barot we walked along the road to Nalhota, in Chota Bhangal, where we stayed in a rented room for the second night. Story of the third day trek from Nalhota to Rajgundha, crossing the Uhl River and exploring Rajgundha was covered in the last post. Morning was biting-cold, and after coming back from the brook, I had to slip back into my sleeping bag.

Morning Sun-rays at peaks visible from Rajgundha, Chota Bhangal, Kangra - (April 2016). Pic courtesy: Deepak

Morning at Rajgundha Camping Site

Sun would appear after 7:00 AM, and without a jacket it was unbearable. No one was on the fields, but within one or two hours, people would start working. At 6:45 AM, sun rays appeared at the ice capped peaks around the Thamsar pass. Deepak clicked these moments, and these photographs are the source from where I am writing the exact timings.

Sun-Rise at RajGundha, Chota Bhangal, Kangra (Pic courtesy: Deepak)

Light descended slowly down from the peaks and reached at our camping site at around 7:15 AM, and that is when Sun with its round shape started to emerge from behind the mountain. An old couple came to the nearby fields with a pair of oxen, a plough and yoke. We acquainted with Sh. Ashok Kumar who wore a Himachali cap, and asked whatever we could ask about his farms. 

Potatoes and vegetables are the two things that mostly are grown. To sell they have to carry them manually to Badagram on the other side of the Uhl. He also told about his son who had been pursuing a degree in Engineering at some private engineering college at Kangra.

Sh. Ashok Kumar with the yoked oxen at Rajgundha, Chota Bhangal, Kangra April 2016 (Pic courtesy: Deepak)

Soon it was about 8:15AM, and we had to pack our tents and get our break-fast meal. At 9:00 AM we were back to the Nepali Brothers’ kitchen to have another meal of Chapati with Potato Sabzi. Also my Cell phone and camera batteries got charged, that I had plugged into the current slots at their house. We paid them about nine hundred rupees for the dinner, break-fast meal and around ten cups of tea. We said good-bye, picked our backpacks, walked just steps up from this house and we already were on the trail that leads to Biling.

Trail towards Biling from Rajgundha, at Rajgundha, Chota Bhangal, Kangra (April 2016)

On the 12 km long Trail to Biling-Bir from RajGundha

It was a long gentle walk along this two to three metres wide tack, that was traced back in 1970s or 80s. It was damaged at some places and therefore not even small vehicles run on it. Sometimes mountain biking events are organised, in which bikers from all over the world participate. Some videos are available on the Youtube where they ride along this wild mountain track from Biling to Rajgundha or further below to Barot and lower areas.  Deodar trees shadowed the track, therefore it could be very cold to walk in the mornings.

Origin of Uhl, Rajgundha, Chota Bhangal, Kangra -  April 2016 (Pic courtesy: Deepak Singh)

Sun was now higher up from the horizon, and beautified our experience. The ice capped mountain peaks were clearer, and so was the view of the Uhl valley that extended down from these peaks towards Barot. We got a bird’s eye view of Bada-gram and Nalhota and they looked silent but beautiful. Deodar trees were later joined by the Rhododendron trees when we reached the ridge crossing. 

A click down to the Uhl valley, Chota Bhangal, Kangra, -April 2016

We could call this a mountain pass, because on one side of it we could see the Uhl valley, while world paragliding site Biling was visible on the other. We could see the para-gliders flying above the jungle at different heights. We put our backpacks down to take a small rest. A one room hut stood on the left of the track.

Clicked just at the crossing from ridge on trail Rajgundha to Biling, Kangra, April 2016.

Someone from Gaddi tribe might be using this as a halt, while carrying their goats and sheep from one side to the other. The place was surrounded by the dense jungle on a very steep mountain terrain. On the very top of this mountain ridge a red flag had caught our attention. It could be the Hanuman Garh of which Parshuram had mentioned about. This would be another one day trek experience to reach the Hanuman Garh peak from either side of the mountain. 

Recharging ourselves with view of beautiful paragliders' Biling valley at Ridge crossing on trail from Rajgundha to Biling, April 2016

Our plan was to reach Biling and while Anand would take a flight with the paraglider, rest three of us would reach Bir in a cab. Another half of the track followed a descending slope because Biling is at lower elevation. Rhododendrons beautify this part of the track in these spring and autumn months of the year with their colourful flowers, which one can eat.

Local use these flowers to make the juices and preserve that for use in summer to make sharbat. It is beneficial for digestion and relieves from heat, and also good for digestion. This second half of the track was easy to walk, but if it was a motor-able road, could be dangerous for the vehicles because the mountain face is very steep. If accidents happen, they would be fatal.

Biling just few meters down, Kangra, April 2016

Biling –A World Paragliding Site

This was the second time for me to visit this site, but earlier I was alone and came via road, that ascends from Bir. Anand was eager to take the flight, though it was his first time. Whole site is established on a mountain which stretches out from the main Dhauladhar range, like a branch at 90 degrees. 

April 2016

At mid heights of this ridge line is located this paragliding site. It provides sufficient heights for the gliders to take a flight into air. Given to the steep descent and elevation difference between the Bir and Biling, a sufficient air pressure difference gets developed and provides the required wind flow.

In 2010 the road from Bir to Biling was in very bad conditions, only light vehicles could reach the site, thanks to the recent world paragliding event of October 2015. The same single lane road now shined like a wet black serpent in sun shine.  It was the peak season for paragliding, around about fifty people could be seen at the site at the moment we reached there. Other than the Indian tourists we saw a group of about ten from other countries, ladies and gents both. The guides who are the professional gliders were taking off into the air with their clients.

We could see more than ten to fifteen gliders in the air. We asked a man who looked as the guide, and he offered a 20-30 minutes flight for INR 2000. Later we would know that a para-glider takes about INR 500 from this 2000 and other goes to the owner of the equipments and glider. Anand was very soon in the air, and we got down to Bir in a cab. 

Anand getting ready for paragliding, at Biling-Bir, Kangra, April 2016  (Courtery: Deepak)

And in air, paragliding at Biling -  April 2016 (Pic courtesy: Deepak)

Anand had a great experience and we caught him at the landing site at Bir. Together we started our back journey to Hamirpur via Palampur and Sujanpur. Later in the evening, we would have a Chicken meal at Flavors(restaurant) as a treat by Deepak Singh for his birthday. I sincerely want to wish him all the very best for his upcoming birthdays.

Thanks!

Camping at Raj-Gundha, Chota Bhangal, Kangra (Part-3)

Hi,

In last part of this four parts story we crossed the Uhl river in between Badagram and Rajgundha and hiked up to Rajgundha. Parshuram parted his way after we walked along the potato farms up to a one and half meters wide road trace. Later sh. Mangat Ram would tell us that it was traced few decades back, but still it had not turned into road. Though in its early years light vehicles could run on it. Parshuram shared his cell phone number with us so as to call if any help was needed by us. His home was on the left and we turned right to look for the forest rest house.

Clouds over the peaks and fields behind the private guest house, Rajgundha, Chota Bhangal.

Camping at Raj-Gundha

Sun still played the hide and seek, but it was not so cold to wear a jacket, after all it was April month.We crossed the private guest house, a home and a mountain brook to reach the forest rest house. We knocked the door several times, but got no response.One of the door was locked and another might be locked from inside. 

A board of wildlife wing, HP Forest Dept. near to Govt. Rest House, Rajgundha, Chota Bhangal, Kangra

Evening – Preparations for camping

We understood that door was locked from inside but the two rooms might be interconnected so that person came out from the locked door. We decided to sit there and eat the bread pieces with butter and milk. Few other fields and houses were visible further along the trail that went towards Palachak. I called Parshuram, and asked for another arrangements, preferably few numbers of blankets and a dinner meal.

Manure in wooden cone(known locally as Kirda)

We definitely wanted to camp there, after all that’s why we carried the tents and sleeping bags to spend time with nature. Finally we came back to the last house we had crossed earlier; a small shop was established inside this stone and wood house. We inquired the shopkeeper about the possible arrangements for the blankets and food. And finally it was all set up.

Waiting for the rest house keeper to come back, Rajgundha, Chota Bhangal, Kangra.

Just few meters back from this house was this another small two room house rented by a Nepali person to make a tea and meal shop. Also blankets were available, which they would provide for free. Even the stay was free if we wanted to, only meals were charged. It was good to know all this, but soon we went to the nearby grassy fields to look for the camping site.

Deepal and Anand - A click towards east, at Rajgundha, chota Bhangal - April 2016

Few non-ploughed fields in between the other ploughed fields which stretched along the slanted mountain face down these houses seemed to be the best site. We cleared the surface from any thorne and unevenness which would damage the tents or our backs. We stretched out the tents’ sticks, opened up the tents and pitched them with the support of the sticks and nails. Sun was about to set behind the same mountain face on which we were. 

Next morning it would rise up from the mountain on the other side of the Uhl. 

Evening at Rajgundha
After all was set up Sai and Deepak went to have some chit chat and cup of tea with the shopkeeper uncle. I felt my stomach asking for emptying. I picked up my cell phone and wallet and went up to mountain, near to the upstream of the brook (nallah), no other facility was available. At the downstream was the village and fields.

Although I didn't find raspberry fallgold(aakha), but a thorny plant Raisin Berberry, that we locally call "Kushmal" could be found almost everywhere on this wild face of the mountain. This two to four meters wide brook bed was filled with big boulders, and a in between and under them a small  water stream ran. This was the source of water for this village, for drinking and irrigation of the potato farms of these village. 

The diversion of the required water was done with a small concrete structure. It was wise to not go upstream of this structure, so as to not pollute the water. At few meters higher reaches, Deodar trees dominated the plantation. When I came back to join Sai and Deepak at shop, I noticed that wallet wasn’t in my pocket. My memory of putting it in my pocket was lucid, and so I didn’t care much.

Small introduction with Thamsar Pass

We drank tea, and talked with Vivek and an uncle - both new acquaintances.  Vivek was a mechanical engineering graduate, a young lad with apple like face, and belonged to this same village. He wore the Himachali cap, and talked with zeal. For the time being he had been working with some private firm at Baddi in Himachal Pradesh. 

A click from shop towards north west-the peaks of Thamsar pass (Rajgundha, Chota Bhangal, Kangra)

He talked about the Thamsar pass that was almost visible from the shop itself. Until then, four of us had assumed that Hanuman Tibba was the one that was visible to us, but this sharp peak was the one adjacent to the Thamsar pass. Thamsar pass connects Chota Bhangal region with the Bada Bhangal. Given to their higher elevations of almost 5000 meters above MSL, all these mountain peaks and their nearby valleys were white covered with snow. Palachak, the place from where Uhl river originates would be somewhere at the base of these peaks onto our sides of mountains.

Our plan for the next day was to walk on the Rajgundha to Billing trail, which originally was traced by government for construction of the road, but work still not completed, as was complained by Sh. Mangat Ram, whom we would meet at dinner.

Dinner at RajGundha

Soon it was dark, and we were guided by Vivek to the small dhaba run by two Nepali brothers. In evening it was cold and the fire that was burning inside kitchen  chulah(fireplace in kitchen) could be helpful. We were invited to sit around it, and tea was offered when we asked. Mangat Ram had been working at Potato farms since last approx. 35 years.

He also wore the Himachali cap, and seemed to be a little proud. Along with Pahari and Hindi, he spoke Nepali language with the two brothers. He was a funny person, and talked to us with all the gentleness that he could get out from him. 

While we ate the dinner of Chapati and potato(aloo sabzi), Anand and Sai were most entertained with his jokes. We all became like friends in just those few hours. He called the names of Nepali brothers with their names, but as the names were new and strange to me, I soon forgot them. The younger Nepali brother had joined the place only a month back, and soon he would go back to his family. While we talked about the recent earthquake, he told us about his younger girl child that was killed in the recent last year April 2015's Nepal earthquake.

Lost and Found

It might not be appropriate to share this personal experience in this blog, but it is unforgettable, and teaches a very common lesson, so I am including it here. After having dinner meal, when we walked in the dark towards the tent, the record of the whereabouts of my wallet became lucid in my memory. While trying to light the bonfire, I struggled with my memory and suddenly felt the urge to touch my wallet.

I searched for the wallet in the tent, but it was not there. Tents were pitched away from the shop and the house, and nobody was there since last two hours. 

Anybody could’ve come and checked our bags inside the tents. Given to the honest and lovely people of the place this last idea seemed absurd. I had no memory of carrying the wallet with me while I had walked away from the tent for the last time. It seemed illogical to carry along the wallet while going up to the mountain brook. But as no one would be there at tent to care for it, it was logical too.

What sounded more difficult to accept was- the idea of me losing the wallet, at the place where I emptied my stomach. I couldn’t be that much careless- I thought.

A morning click towards west - mountain brook valley and the house and shop in front, Rajgundha, Chota Bhangal, Kangra, April 2016.

 I feared for being wrong, therefore for a moment, I shut my mind to this latter possibility. Deepak and Anand tried to help me with the search inside my bag and other corners of the tent. But it was not found, though somehow they got success in lighting the fire in those partially wet wood sticks and pieces. If I was in good mood, I would have joined very much happily. Instead I slipped into my sleeping bag, and tried to concentrate on my memory.

My wallet carried less than one thousand rupees, but it carried my ATM card and few other Id proofs. Who knew I would be cursing my memory inside the tent, while I could’ve enjoyed sitting outside around the bonfire. Friends suggested that possibly I had lost it at the brook. I contemplated for about half an hour and somehow assured myself about the same idea. For 99% of chances, next morning I would find the wallet at the same place.

I felt relaxed, but still felt sleepless. I got up and after pissing at the corner, sat alongside them. Stars had come with bright lights and it definitely was a divine experience, but it was cold. A jacket would have been sufficient. I went back inside the tent. It was still half dark when I got up in the morning, and it was chilling. I asked Anand to close the tent from inside while I went to search for my wallet. I went from alternate path, but directly to the place where I had sat. 

I could not expect to have lost it at any other place.

A Fine morning view of Rajgundha, clicked eastward, April 2016

I found it in its pristine state, nothing was lost from it. I felt like flying with happiness. For the second and last time, I repeated the stomach emptying process, and came back. It was Deepak’s birthday too, and I could wish him happily now. All of them got up after 6:00 AM or later. Sun rose up from behind the front mountain face.

In next part :Trekking from RajGundha to Biling-Bir and Paragliding