My recent trek to the Murah Mata Temple wasn’t just about
visiting a shrine—it was an adventure into the untouched wilderness of
Himachal’s mountain ridges. The journey was the true destination.
While roads have taken over as the primary means of travel,
especially for the locals, this wasn’t always the case. About three to five decades ago,
mountain treks were a part of everyday life. People used them routinely to
cross ridges and reach neighboring valleys. One such forgotten trail lies on a
Himalayan sub-range in the Mandi district—Janitri Dhar.
In our local Mandi dialect, Mandyali, "Dhar"
means ridge. As is typical of ridgelines, Janitri Dhar offers views on both
sides: Tungal and Kotli stretch out on one side, while the valleys of Thona,
Baroti, and Rewalsar lie on the other.
This trek is not for the faint-hearted. The trail winds
through a dense oak forest—what we call "bana ri rakh" in
Mandyali. It’s a path that few have explored, making it all the more thrilling.
When you finally reach the Murah Mata Temple, perched high on the ridge, you're greeted with panoramic views that are nothing short of spectacular. To the west lie Sarkaghat and Dharampur, while Mandi and Kotli open up to the east. Look north, and you’ll spot the majestic snow-covered peaks of the Dhauladhar range. To the south, your gaze is drawn to the Naina Mata Temple, situated atop the Sar Ki Dhar ridge. Interestingly, Rewalsar Lake remains hidden behind the mountain that hosts the Naina Mata shrine—quiet, mystical, and waiting to be discovered.
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| Location of Murah Mata Temple(31.730188, 76.829173) w.r.t. Naina Mata Temple of Riwalsar, in Sarkaghat, Mandi, H.P.courtesy: google Maps |
Challenging Paths and Early Starts: Trekking to Janitri
Dhar
To the northwest of Janitri Dhar, you get a sweeping view of
the lower Shivalik ranges. Among these is a steep ridge that holds the historic
Kamlah Fort, perched at a relatively lower altitude—but still commanding
in presence.
Reaching the Murah Mata Temple atop this ridge isn’t
straightforward. There are no roads, not even a clearly defined trail,
making it a route unsuitable for solo hikers or first-timers. In fact, the
closest village to the peak can’t be easily pinpointed. It could be Thona,
or perhaps one of the nearby settlements in the Tungal or Kotli areas of
Mandi district. Roughly estimating, all these locations are at least 9 to 10
kilometers away, and for good trekkers, the journey involves more than three hours of
trekking through steep, untamed wilderness.
Our own trail began from Chori (Maigal), a path
familiar to Shashi, my younger cousin. Our group of four included him, Naresh,
and his friend from Una—all ready for the challenge.
Preparing for the Trek
I had instructed everyone to begin the hike at 8:00 AM,
which was the earliest we could manage due to some family events we were
attending in Parasla, at Shashi's home. Though for Palasra, the sun rises behind
the same mountain, its rays take a while to light up the slope we were
about to climb. Still, I recommend starting as early as 5:00 or 6:00 AM,
especially during May, to avoid the brunt of the sun and reduce the risk
of sunburn.
There are no water sources along the trek, not even a
trickle. Carrying at least 1 to 2 liters of water per person is
absolutely essential. There are no homes, no tea stalls, no resting
spots—so carry your own food, no compromises there. The only minor
comfort was that mobile networks remained functional due to the lower
elevation at the start.
Into the Tree Line: Kafal and Baan Forests
We finally started around 9:00 AM, by which time the
sun was already high and had us sweating just minutes into the climb. The
initial stretch—about one-third of the trek—took us through open grasslands,
devoid of tree cover. These patches are often used by local shepherds and
cattle owners, and we passed by two animal shelters in this stretch.
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Trekking across the sloped grasslands, tree line still ahead
— en route from Maigal (Thona) to Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar, Mandi (May
2016) |
As we moved ahead, the grasslands slowly gave way to the tree line, marked by the presence of Kafal (Bayberry) and Baan (Oak) trees—a shift in landscape that promised more shade, more challenge, and more adventure.
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| Our beloved Kaafal tree, laden with green and pink bayberries, on Murah Dhar (Janitri Dhar), Mandi — May 2016. |
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| As we paused to rest, we found shelter beneath a cave-like rock formation—the massive boulder had a wider top than base, and its overhanging edge extended over the path, creating a natural roof of shade |
Through the Forest and Closer to the Temple
As we climbed higher and reached the ridgeline of the
mountain, the landscape began to shift. Deciduous pine trees started
appearing along the narrow trail that wound its way toward the peak. About a
kilometer into this ridge walk, we had a delightful encounter—a woman
perched on a Kafal (bayberry) tree, plucking the fruit.
The tree was loaded with green and pink ripe berries,
irresistibly fresh and sweet. We greeted her and helped ourselves to the
berries from the lower branches—an energizing and refreshing moment amidst the
steep hike.
Arrival at Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar
As we continued, the trail led us through a mix of Kafal,
oak (baan), and even a few rhododendron trees. The jungle grew
denser, and we spotted a few wild birds, which hinted at the likely
presence of other forest dwellers—rabbits, wild boars, bears, and
perhaps even leopards. The path, in many sections, became indistinct
or invisible, making it easy to get lost. It’s definitely not a route one
should attempt alone, especially since the temple remains hidden
from view for most of the journey.
Along the way, we came across two teenage boys
resting under a massive stone boulder, large enough to shelter 10 to
15 people during rainfall—a natural refuge in the wild.
They had unwelcome news for us: there was no water
source at the temple. Even Shashi, who had guided us, was unaware of this
fact. We had carried just two liters of water, which had already run
out, trusting Shashi’s earlier assurance that we could refill at the temple.
That turned out to be misinformation, and we were suddenly in a difficult spot. Luckily, the boys were on their way down and shared a little water with us. In return, we gave them the last few sips of our Coca-Cola, a small but much-appreciated exchange in the middle of a demanding trek.
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First sight of Murah Mata Temple perched on the ridge,
Janitri Dhar, Mandi — May 2016. |
At the Summit: Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar
We finally reached the Murah Mata Temple around midday,
just as the sun stood high at the zenith. Fortunately, a cool mountain
breeze welcomed us at the top, soothing our sun-weary bodies.
At the summit stood a modest yet peaceful structure. Shelters
(sarayas) had been built on the ground floor to accommodate visiting
devotees. The first floor was still under construction, but a concrete
slab with columns had already been laid out. Resting atop this slab was the
small temple, a quiet sanctum dedicated to the Hindu goddess Murah
Mata.
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| Murah Mata temple, Janitri Dhar, Sarkaghat, Mandi, H.P. -- May 2016 |
Life at the Temple Summit
At the base floor of the temple, we found a few
simple but thoughtful provisions—an empty clay pot and a couple of blankets—clearly
meant for anyone who might choose to spend the night there. However, no
water supply had reached the temple yet, so visitors must carry their
own water—there’s no alternative.
In the surrounding area, we noticed animal shelters,
likely for goats or cattle that might accompany locals or temple caretakers.
Just a few meters away stood a small Shiva temple, quietly complementing
the presence of the Murah Mata shrine.
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| Animal shelters and Shiva Temple behind Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar, Sarkaghat, Mandi — May 2016. |
Interestingly, the Janitri Dhar ridge also marks a natural
boundary: Sarkaghat Tehsil lies to the west, while Kotlu Tehsil
spreads to the east. From the temple’s height, the entire ridge line is
visible, along with the vast expanse of the Baglu forest that
stretches into the horizon.
As we stood there soaking in the spiritual calm and panoramic views, my four companions began chanting Sanskrit mantras in praise of the Goddess Murah Mata. I captured the moment on my cell phone camera, hoping to preserve the raw devotion and stillness that defined the peak.
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View of Baglu Forest from Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar,
Sarkaghat — May 2016. |
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| View of the Kotli region from Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar, Sarkaghat, Mandi — May 2016 |
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| View of Thona and surrounding areas from Murah Mata Temple, Janitri Dhar, Sarkaghat — May 2016. |
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View of Naina Mata Temple on Sar Ki Dhar ridge (Rewalsar),
as seen from Murah Mata Temple on Janitri Dhar, Sarkaghat — May 2016 |
The Descent and a Fulfilling End
We spent about an hour at the temple, soaking in the
peace, taking photos, and enjoying the simple rotis I had packed from my
aunt’s kitchen. It was a humble but satisfying meal, made even better by
the altitude and accomplishment.
With the afternoon sun now mellowing, we began our descent.
On the way down, we gathered Kaafal berries, stuffing them into bags
and bottles—whatever we had with us. These sweet, wild fruits felt like a
reward from the mountain itself.
We finally reached the village near Chori (Maigal) at
around 5:00 PM. The first house we passed had a water source, and I
immediately drank nearly a litre—much needed after the long, dry return.
Thank You for Reading!
Thanks for joining me on this journey to Murah Mata
Temple via Janitri Dhar. If you enjoyed this trek, don’t miss my last
adventure—a hike from Joginder Nagar to Bir-Billing via Winch Camp
and Rajgundha. It’s a trail full of alpine meadows, heritage paths, and
hidden Himachali charm.
Until the next trail—happy hiking!
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