Thursday, April 17, 2014

A Visit to Kamlah Fort and Baba Kamlahiya of Sarkaghat, Mandi, H.P.

Hi there,

If you love history, rugged mountain forts, and hidden spiritual spots, Kamlah Fort near Sarkaghat, Himachal Pradesh, should definitely be on your list. This fort, perched high up in the Shivalik Hills, not only carries a fascinating legacy of kings and conquerors but also houses the small, peaceful Baba Kamlahiya Temple, a site of deep local devotion.

Kamlah Fort Main Entrance | Sarkaghat, Mandi (H.P.) | 16th April 2014



How to Reach Kamlah Fort

Kamlah Fort is located about 100 km from Mandi town, accessible via Kotli and Dharampur. You can also approach from Hamirpur or Kangra, but whichever route you choose, you’ll eventually need to reach Dharampur, as there’s no alternative road to the fort.

Nearest transport options:
Railway: Joginder Nagar (narrow gauge to Pathankot, approx. 50 km away) or Una station.
Airport: The closest is Gaggal Airport, followed by Bhuntar and Shimla airports.

Location of Kamlah Garh (Fort) as seen on Google Maps — A hidden historical site in the Shivalik Hills of Himachal Pradesh

Nearby Towns

The fort is located south of the Dhauladhar range, tucked away in the lap of the Shivalik Hills. The nearest towns are Dharampur and Sandhol, both falling under Sarkaghat tehsil, Mandi district, Himachal Pradesh.

Interestingly, during my trip, I combined the visit with a stop at my sister's home in Bhartpur (Bharauri), just 15 km from the fort along the Dharampur road — a perfect coincidence for a quick detour to explore this historical marvel.

Mata Sakraini Temple, located on the right side of the road to Kamlah Fort — Clicked on 16th April 2014

The Journey & Road Conditions

Locals had warned me about the poor road conditions, with infrequent bus service. So, I decided to take my trusted 100 cc TVS Sport Star bike for the ride. If you have a sturdier option like a Royal Enfield Bullet, that would be even better for these hilly roads.

Along the way, I passed by the charming Mata Sakraini Temple, a peaceful stop on the route to the fort.


Reaching the Fort

After reaching Chamba Naun, you have two options:
Take the foot trail, approximately 1.5 km, perfect for those who love walking.
Or, follow the motorable road to the base of the fort.

Locals along the way are friendly and helpful, so don’t hesitate to ask for directions.


A Brief History of Kamlah Fort

According to Himachal Tourism, construction of the fort began under the reign of Raja Hari Sen.. Strategically located on Sikandar-Dhar, the fort was completed by his son Raja Suraj Sen in 1625.

Visitor Information Board displaying the History of Kamlah Fort in Hindi and English — Installed at the site for tourists. Photo taken on 16th April 2014.

Standing tall at an altitude of 4,772 feet (1,454 metres), the fort remained virtually invincible for years. Even the mighty Mughals hesitated to attack, fearing the natural defences of the place. But in 1840, the fort finally fell to Bentura, a general of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. By 1846, the fort was back under the control of the kings of Mandi.

The Legend of the Queen's Cave (Rani ki Gufa)


Queen's Cave (Rani ki Gufa) at Kamlah Garh — Now used for sheltering goats and sheep offered to Baba Kamlahiya


Local folklore says that when Ranjit Singh's army conquered the fort, the Queen, hiding in Rani ki Gufa within the fort, chose to leap to her death rather than be captured. Today, this cave serves a humbler purpose — shelter for goats and sheep offered to the local deity.


The Fort Today — History Weathered by Time

The approach to the main fort entrance is steep and rugged, giving you an idea of how difficult it must have been to build — let alone conquer — this mountain fortress.

Kamlah Fort, Sarkaghat, Mandi (H.P.) — Clicked on 16th April 2014


The Sikandar-Dhar mountain itself is unique, with sharp angular edges and near-vertical cliffs in places, naturally fortifying the structure. Though weather and time have taken their toll, I noticed repair and cleaning work underway during my visit in April 2014.

Layered Entrances of Kamlah Fort — A strategic defence against invaders. Clicked on 16th April 2014.

Inside, marble-tiled paths gifted by devotees add a touch of devotion amidst the ruins.

The Third Entrance Gate of Kamlah Fort, part of its layered defence architecture — Photo taken on 16th April 2014.



Baba Kamlahiya Temple — A Hidden Spiritual Retreat

At the top of the mountain stands a simple yet revered temple dedicated to Baba Kamlahiya, an ancient saint deeply respected by locals. Construction work was ongoing during my visit to expand the temple area.

Interestingly, animal sacrifices are now banned, and the goats offered by devotees are auctioned instead — a progressive shift I was glad to see.

You’ll often spot mischievous monkeys around the temple — a reminder to keep your belongings secure, especially fruits or small items they might fancy. I carried only my camera, and thankfully, they didn’t show much interest.

Baba Kamlahiya Temple at Kamlah Fort — As it stood on 16th April 2014



The Story of Baba Kamlahiya

Legend has it that Baba Kamlahiya and Baba Balaknath, both saints from Jammu, came to Himachal Pradesh in search of spiritual refuge.

Baba Kamlahiya's Idol enshrined inside the temple at Kamlah Fort — Sarkaghat, Mandi (H.P.). Photo taken on 16th April 2014


Baba Balaknath settled near Shah Talai, Kangra, at Deotsidh.
Baba Kamlahiya chose Sikandar-Dhar, meditating under a tree at the current fort site.

An elderly woman from the village used to offer him milk daily. One day, delayed by chores, she arrived late. When questioned, she grew angry and cursed him. Baba Kamlahiya quietly left, never to be seen again.

But his presence remained. A shepherd soon noticed one of his goats spraying milk at the spot where Baba meditated. The shepherd’s herd flourished, and villagers began to believe Baba had become one with the land.

They enshrined his memory with a statue under the old tree. Eventually, when the tree withered, a temple was built in its place. Over time, countless stories of fulfilled wishes have reinforced people's faith in Baba Kamlahiya.

Final Thoughts

Visiting Kamlah Fort is more than just a history trip — it's a glimpse into the spiritual and cultural fabric of Himachal Pradesh. From the weathered stone walls to the peaceful temple at the summit, every step tells a story.

For adventurers, history lovers, and spiritual seekers alike, this lesser-known fort offers a perfect blend of heritage and tranquillity.


Thanks for reading! If you’ve visited Kamlah Fort or have stories to share, feel free to comment below. And as always, stay curious and keep exploring!

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