Best of Kinnaur and Spiti Travels- part 9 - Chandertaal to Manali via Rohtang Pass - a Bike Ride

Hello again,

In this post, I'm excited to recount my adventure riding my 100cc motorcycle on one of the wildest and most challenging roads in India—from Chandertaal lake to Manali. If you haven't been following the journey from its origin at the Shrikhand Mahadev trek, I recommend checking out the preceding eight parts of this travel series. These earlier segments delve into my explorations in Sangla, Chhitkul, Tabo, Kaza, Kibber, Komik, and the most recent one focused on the mesmerizing Chander-Taal lake. 

Chander-taal to Batal - 11 kms 

Eleven kilometers from Chander-Taal to Batal, the journey continued. As mentioned in the previous post, our day began early, a decision explained in detail earlier. The 11 km stretch of the connecting road posed its challenges, with its terrain proving a bit hazardous for our ride.

Negotiating this path, we encountered a significant water stream where our attempts to keep our legs dry proved futile. Fortunately, having companions like Naren and Rahul proved invaluable in such treacherous terrains. Riding alone in such places can be risky, and their company provided an added layer of safety. Remember, in such circumstances, it's always advisable not to travel alone as you never know when assistance might be crucial. 

Breakfast at Batal

Dhaba of Chacha-Chachi at Batal

At Batal, you have the opportunity to savor local delicacies such as Paranthas and daal chawal. Notably, the place is renowned for Chacha-Chachi, an elderly couple who gained widespread acclaim for their heroic efforts in rescuing a stranded group from Mumbai back in June 2010. Despite the passage of time, Chacha-Chachi, now likely in their 60s with well-earned wrinkles on their faces, continue to embody a generous spirit. Their large-heartedness extends to helping those in need, with no concern for financial gain.

At Batal, Chandra river in the back - clicked by Rahul

Unfortunately, we couldn't request a photo opportunity with them as they were engrossed in preparing food, and I hesitated to disturb their work. Nevertheless, we relished the Paranthas, biscuits, and tea they graciously offered, all at the most reasonable prices considering the remote location.

Batal to Gramphu:

Navigating this stretch proved to be the most challenging part of the journey. The primary obstacle was the numerous crossings of both small and large wild water streams along the road, requiring riders to wade through them. Among the infamous ones, Paagal Nala and Chota Dara stand out in discussions. We managed to capture a video of the crossing, although I cannot definitively identify whether it's Paagal Nala or Chota Darah. I invite you to watch the video and share your insights if you can help identify the specific stream.

This particular nalah was the only spot where we decided to take a brief break. We also seized the opportunity to capture a few photographs.

See the happines on Batal Gramphu road at Pagal Nalah (or Chota Dara?)

After navigating through several challenging nalahs and a dusty, pebbled road, we finally arrived at Gramphu, where our route converged with the well-maintained Rohtang-Kelang road.

Gramphu to Manali via Rohtang Pass

Kaaza road meeting at Gramphu

After an arduous ride that left us with some discomfort, the transition to the metalled highway felt like gliding on butter. The road, adorned with numerous hairpin bends, ascends sharply from Gramphu to Rohtang. In just half or one hour, you find yourself at the pass. Unfortunately, the foggy conditions limited my ability to capture clearer photos.

Rohtang Pass in my front.

view on my back.

Father of Manali Leh Highway

The descent from Rohtang to Madhi (Marhi) matches the steepness of the ascent from Gramphu to Rohtang. Subsequently, the journey features a somewhat gentle descent until reaching Manali. While the road conditions are excellent, caution is advised, especially around the sharp blind curves.

Thank you for reading thus far. Stay tuned for the next post!