Finally, the Taj at 36: A Road Trip That Began with Karna Lake

 

As I neared the end of 2024, standing on the threshold of my 37th birthday, one thing struck me — I had never visited the Taj Mahal. Despite receiving a fair early education and holding a professional degree, I hadn’t yet made it to one of India’s most iconic landmarks. In a country so rich in history and culture, that felt like a glaring omission.

Especially once you're married, there’s a kind of societal nudge — or outright push — to visit certain places, and the Taj Mahal tops that list. For months, I had been toying with the idea of finally making the trip, but the plan just wouldn’t fall into place. Every time I checked Google Maps, it reminded me that Agra was about 470 kilometers away from Chandigarh. Not an impossible distance, but not a casual weekend drive either — especially with a 2.5-year-old toddler in tow.

Traveling with a toddler changes everything. Your best bet is always your own vehicle (or a privately hired one), because the baggage isn’t just suitcases — it’s diapers, snacks, milk, extra clothes, wet wipes, and the list goes on. Public transport, with its uncertain schedules and questionable comfort, just wasn’t an option.

The weather was another critical factor. Cities like Delhi and Agra can be merciless in the summer — heat, pollution, and endless sweating are the last things you want when you're carrying a child around. So we picked the tail end of September, hoping for bearable weather. Our journey spanned the last three days of the month and extended into 1st October 2024.

We planned to explore both Delhi and Agra during this trip. In Delhi, the Red Fort, Qutub Minar, and India Gate were on our list, with room for a few more if time and energy allowed. Agra, of course, revolved around one goal: seeing the Taj Mahal. Anything extra would be a bonus.

Since I was driving, transportation wasn't a concern. It was just a matter of time, energy, and a toddler’s unpredictable moods — the true wild card of any family road trip.

A Serene Pause at Karna Lake, Karnal

We started early from Panchkula, planning to stay the night with relatives in Delhi — so booking a hotel wasn’t on the agenda. That gave us the flexibility to pause when needed, and around 3 PM, we decided to take a break in Karnal.

Karna Lake appeared on the left side of the highway, just a short distance off the road while heading toward Delhi from Chandigarh. Google Maps showed an eatery right on the lakefront, and we were already a bit hungry — so it felt like the perfect spot for lunch and a leg-stretch.

Now, as I write this in late July 2025, I can’t help but reflect on the recent Swachh Survekshan 2024-25 rankings, which placed Karnal among the top three cleanest cities in India. Had I known this back during our trip, I might have explored more of the city rather than limiting ourselves to the lake.

The lake area was clean and green, surrounded by trees and walking paths paved for pedestrians and morning walkers. There was ample parking, but a school exam was underway at the nearby Delhi Public School, so the parking lot near the school was unusually crowded. Caught in that confusion, I parked a bit farther than necessary. We ended up walking to the eatery, and even though we later noticed plenty of empty spots closer by, the walk was actually refreshing.

To be honest, I don’t recall what exactly I ordered at the restaurant — I’m not much of a foodie. What I do remember is that our toddler, Piyush, wasn’t interested in proper meals or fast food. He was more taken with namkeen and Kurkure. The food itself was average, and it seemed like the eatery was privately run even though the property belongs to the Haryana Tourism Department. Even finding a toilet wasn’t straightforward — I had to walk over to a larger adjacent building just for that. I hope by now they’ve made the amenities more accessible.

But what made up for everything was the location.

From our seat, we could see the lake — calm, quiet, with white ducks gliding gracefully across the water. The trees and greenery surrounding the lake gave it a peaceful charm. After lunch, we took a leisurely walk along the paved path that rings the lake. Being so close to the ducks felt oddly calming.

At the entrance to a narrow pathway extending into the lake stood the statue of Karna, the legendary warrior and half-brother of the Pandavas from the Mahabharata. 

The path resembled the radius of a circle, reaching toward the lake’s center but falling short. At its end stood a cluster of tall green trees and a small building whose purpose we couldn’t quite discern. We noticed many bats hanging upside down from the branches above — an unexpected but fascinating sight.

This short break at Karna Lake turned out to be one of the most serene moments of our road trip — a quiet pause before diving into the historical frenzy of Delhi and the majesty of Agra. It reminded me that even the unplanned stops on a journey can leave behind strong, peaceful memories.

At around 3:40 PM we were back on our car riding towards Delhi.

Night Stay at My Cousin Sister’s Home in Delhi

After our refreshing stop at Karna Lake, we continued our journey toward Delhi. As we approached the city from the Sonepat side, we began to encounter the familiar crawl of evening traffic. It was around 6 PM when we turned off the Budhpur–Alipur stretch (of NH 44) and veered onto Pushta Road, which runs parallel to the canal. Not long after, we took a quieter sub-Pushta road lined with trees, which led us towards Bund Road, which runs parallel to the Yamuna River. However, we were to take a mid-way right turn towards Burari, before the sub-Pushta road could touch the Bund road.

With guidance from my cousin sister (Didi) and her husband (Jija Ji), we navigated the narrow lanes of Burari and reached their home just as daylight faded. After Jija Ji helped me find a parking spot along the roadside, we settled in for the evening — catching up over a warm meal and hours of conversation.

It had been nearly a decade since I’d last seen my sister and her daughter, who was now grown up — almost unrecognizably tall. That moment of reunion, filled with laughter and nostalgic stories, felt truly special. However, Delhi’s night heat took me by surprise. Unlike the cooler evenings of Chandigarh, here the air was still and heavy, a reminder that summer hadn’t fully let go yet.

A Morning Stroll Along Pushta Road, Near the Yamuna

Dawn broke early. I was already awake, and with some quiet time on my hands, I decided to go for a morning walk along the Yamuna’s Pushta Road — a long stretch built on the embankment protecting the city from the river’s seasonal rise.

Though the sun had already risen, the morning air was still pleasant. In monsoon months, the Yamuna’s waters can rise dramatically, often brushing against these very embankments. But at the end of September, the scene was far more tranquil. Greenery stretched as far as I could see, interrupted only by rows of trees. From my vantage point, the river itself wasn’t visible — hidden by the thick vegetation and distance.

I realized I was quite close to the Yamuna Biodiversity Park — a protected green zone I’d heard of but hadn’t prioritized for this trip. Maybe next time, I told myself. It would be worth a visit.

There was no traffic on the Pushta Road, just silence and a gentle breeze, making it a perfect start to the day. Before the sun climbed too high, I turned back and was home before 8 AM.

Our plan for the day was to explore some of Delhi’s key tourist attractions. Unfortunately, Jija Ji wasn’t feeling well, so neither he nor my sister could accompany us. But we were excited to take on the capital city on our own — with a full day of adventure ahead.

Exploring Delhi: First Stop – The Red Fort

Even though we had to explore Delhi without our hosts due to Jija Ji’s health, we were excited to take on the capital city on our own — ready for a full day of adventure.
Looking back now, nearly ten months later, I can’t recall the exact time we left my sister’s home in Burari. But thanks to the timestamps on my photos, I know we reached the parking area near the Red Fort around noon.
What should’ve been a quick, five-minute drive to the parking lot, from the left lane of the Netaji Subhash Marg,  turned into a frustrating detour. The traffic on the stretch of Netaji Subhash Marg running alongside the Red Fort was nothing short of chaotic. It was slow-moving, bumper-to-bumper — the kind of traffic that chips away at your energy and patience. I likely lost at least half an hour, maybe more, just trying to loop around to the Red Fort/Chandni Chowk parking lot.

Once we parked and stepped out, we were greeted by a different kind of crowd — the human kind.
The sidewalks along the road were packed. A dense mix of tourists, locals, rickshaw pullers, and roadside vendors made walking feel like a task in itself. Street stalls selling everything from cold drinks and snacks to souvenirs lined the way, narrowing the walking space even further.

The Red Fort Experience

Despite the pressing crowd and the unforgiving heat, the first glimpse of the towering red sandstone walls of the Red Fort filled us with a sudden rush of energy. We had finally arrived at its historic gates—a place that had silently witnessed centuries of India’s triumphs, trials, and transformations. The journey had tested our patience, but the thought of stepping into a monument so deeply woven into our nation’s past made everything worthwhile.

I had last visited the Red Fort back in February 2017, during a trip to see Surjit in Ghaziabad. That visit had been as a bachelor, and life was very different then. This time, standing at the Lahori Gate as a married man, the experience felt new and significant in an unfamiliar way.

By the time we reached the entrance, the sun was already blazing overhead, making the heat nearly unbearable. A long queue had formed at the ticket counter. I asked Nisha to wait under the shade while I stood in line. The situation there was far from orderly—some people were ignoring the queue altogether, trying to squeeze in from the sides. The counters were close together, and a few men from the adjacent line began pushing forward into mine.

I wasn’t comfortable confronting strangers, but I couldn’t just let it slide. I spoke up firmly, asking them to respect the line, and even called over the security personnel to restore order. It was an awkward moment—but doing the right thing often is.

With tickets finally in hand, we entered through the iconic Lahori Gate. Just beyond lay the Meena Bazaar, followed by the Diwan-e-Aam and the Diwan-e-Khaas—each a striking reminder of the fort’s Mughal grandeur. As we walked through, I found myself slipping into imagination, visualizing the splendor of Shah Jahan’s era. I pictured the emperor addressing the grievances of commoners in the Diwan-e-Aam, while the elite were received with great ceremony in the Diwan-e-Khaas.

I couldn’t help but wonder what it would’ve been like to sit on the famed Peacock Throne—crafted in gold, studded with precious stones, and graced by the legendary Kohinoor diamond. With every step through those grand halls, it felt less like a sightseeing tour and more like a journey through time. These forts have that effect on me—they stir up vivid, self-created scenes from history, pulling me momentarily into a world long gone.

Taking a short break — exploring every corner of the Red Fort can be quite overwhelming

One of the six palaces, on the eastern side, facing the Yamuna River, inside the Red Fort, 2024.

The ponds and water channels inside the Red Fort held muddy water — a quiet contrast to the grandeur around. 2024.

Piyush was already tired from walking through the vast green gardens of the Red Fort. Clicked as we exited through the Meena Bazaar, Red Fort, 2024.

Exiting Meena Bazaar & Changing Plans

It was already 1:35 PM by the time we exited Meena Bazaar—the historic marketplace once meant to serve the elite women of the Mughal court residing within the Red Fort. We strolled past the shops without much interest; most seemed to be selling souvenirs, and the heat had drained any shopping enthusiasm we might’ve had.

With the afternoon sun growing harsher, I reconsidered our plan to explore more of Delhi. Instead, we decided to head straight to Agra. If we left now, we could reach by evening or night, rest well, and then visit the Taj Mahal early the next morning—before the next day’s heat took over.

The Drive from Delhi to Agra

That drive turned out to be one of the smoothest and most relaxing journeys I’ve ever had. 

The Yamuna Expressway Experience

The Yamuna Expressway, stretching from Noida to the outskirts of Agra—specifically, Kuberpur, as marked on Google Maps—was in excellent condition. It ran almost perfectly straight, with six wide lanes on either side, making the drive feel effortless, almost like slicing through butter. The smooth transition from the chaos and congestion of Delhi to the calm openness of the highway felt almost therapeutic—a rare kind of peace for anyone used to city traffic.

Hotel Booking

As we left the Delhi and Noida traffic behind, and entered the Yamuna expressway, I think it was already about 3 PM. In the evenings, sometimes the hotels' rooms become expensive and unavailable. Somewhere in the middle of the Yamuna expressway, we took an eating break, and I utilized the time to book a hotel. 

Arrival at the Hotel Taj Resorts

I generally book the hotel only after checking the Google reviews and other reviews, whichever are available. I found the reviews of this Tata company's hotel, named 'Hotel Taj Resorts', to be very good. 

I had booked the room for one night at a total price of ₹3,283, which included breakfast the next morning.

We arrived at the hotel just before nightfall and took some time to relax. The room was well beyond what I had expected—clean, spacious, and thoughtfully furnished. One of the highlights was the large bathtub in the bathroom. It wasn’t a jacuzzi, but it had a shower overhead, a separate tap for filling it, and a pluggable drain at the base—ideal for a long, relaxing soak. It was still a first for us to use a proper bathtub like that in a hotel.

There was a rooftop swimming pool, which came as a complete surprise—I hadn’t expected that at all. However, when we visited the rooftop around 8:30 PM, the pool was completely empty; no one was using it at the time. We weren’t bold enough to take a dip ourselves, especially with Piyush still being a toddler. It felt too risky, so we decided to give it a pass.

Curious about the in-house dining options at Hotel Taj Resorts, I headed up to the rooftop restaurant. The open-air seating offered a striking view of the Taj Mahal, which appeared as a dark, majestic silhouette in the distance. I had heard that it glows white under the moonlight, but tonight there was no moon—only the massive shadow of the monument looming quietly about 500 meters away. Even in near darkness, its presence was commanding.

Since we were staying only one night, I also wanted to explore food options outside the hotel. Plus, we needed to buy fresh milk packets for Piyush. So I decided to step out, find a nearby shop to get the milk, store it in the room’s mini-fridge, and then head out again for dinner.

Dinner at Hotel Taj Plaza

Just 30 to 40 meters down the Taj Mahal Road from Hotel Taj Resorts, we found ourselves at Hotel Taj Plaza for dinner. The indoor dining area was decent, but we decided to head to the rooftop instead.

To my surprise, the rooftop view of the Taj Mahal was even better from here—closer, clearer, and more dramatic. However, being an open space, it also came with some drawbacks. Mosquitoes were quite a nuisance, and the heat—especially while eating hot food—was made worse despite the roof fans doing their best.

Still, the setting was memorable. Let me share some photos I clicked from the rooftop—the silhouette of the Taj Mahal under the night sky was truly something to see. While Taj Plaza also seemed to offer rooms, we weren’t staying there.

We returned to our own hotel, Hotel Taj Resorts, and had a restful night’s sleep. 

I couldn't stop myself from clicking this beautiful swimming pool area on the rooftop, in the early morning, at 08:05 AM.

Hotel Taj Resorts’ rooftop pool — Agra, near the Taj Mahal, Sept 29, 2024

A Breakfast Beyond Expectations at Hotel Taj Resorts

The next morning surprised us more than anything else—the breakfast was far better than we had imagined.

Given the modest price of our stay, I hadn’t expected much. But the buffet spread truly exceeded expectations: generous in variety, impressive in quality, and the perfect start to our day at the Taj Mahal. From milk, tea, and fresh fruits to salads, boiled eggs, omelets, poha, bread slices, dhokla, idli-dosa, and parathas—what more could one ask for?

The dining area had a nice blend of Indian and foreign guests, all enjoying the hearty meal. Nisha even struck up a conversation with a Punjabi lady, who kindly offered us tips on how best to explore the Taj Mahal—our main mission for the day.

As we wrapped up breakfast and headed toward the exit, a few people near the Taj Gallery—an in-house shop within Hotel Taj Resorts—invited us to browse through their marble handicrafts. The collection included miniature replicas of the Taj Mahal in various sizes, from palm-sized pieces to larger showpieces for home decor. We picked up a small one as a keepsake—a simple souvenir to remember our visit.

The Taj Gallery was a unique feature I hadn’t seen in a hotel before, adding a thoughtful cultural touch to the overall experience.

..to be continued