A Visit to Kamlah Fort and Baba Kamlahiya of Sarkaghat, Mandi, H.P.

Hi there,

If you love history, rugged mountain forts, and hidden spiritual spots, Kamlah Fort near Sarkaghat, Himachal Pradesh, should definitely be on your list. This fort, perched high up in the Shivalik Hills, not only carries a fascinating legacy of kings and conquerors but also houses the small, peaceful Baba Kamlahiya Temple, a site of deep local devotion.

Kamlah Fort Main Entrance | Sarkaghat, Mandi (H.P.) | 16th April 2014

---

How to Reach Kamlah Fort

Kamlah Fort is located about 100 km from Mandi town, accessible via Kotli and Dharampur. You can also approach from Hamirpur or Kangra, but whichever route you choose, you’ll eventually need to reach Dharampur, as there’s no alternative road to the fort.

Nearest transport options:
✔ Railway: Joginder Nagar (narrow gauge to Pathankot, approx. 50 km away) or Una station.
✔ Airport: The closest is Gaggal Airport, followed by Bhuntar and Shimla airports.

Location of Kamlah Garh (Fort) as seen on Google Maps — A hidden historical site in the Shivalik Hills of Himachal Pradesh

Nearby Towns

The fort is located south of the Dhauladhar range, tucked away in the lap of the Shivalik Hills. The nearest towns are Dharampur and Sandhol, both falling under Sarkaghat tehsil, Mandi district, Himachal Pradesh.

Interestingly, during my trip, I combined the visit with a stop at my sister's home in Bhartpur (Bharauri), just 15 km from the fort along the Dharampur road — a perfect coincidence for a quick detour to explore this historical marvel.

Mata Sakraini Temple, located on the right side of the road to Kamlah Fort — Clicked on 16th April 2014

The Journey & Road Conditions

Locals had warned me about the poor road conditions, with infrequent bus service. So, I decided to take my trusted 100 cc TVS Sport Star bike for the ride. If you have a sturdier option like a Royal Enfield Bullet, that would be even better for these hilly roads.

Along the way, I passed by the charming Mata Sakraini Temple, a peaceful stop on the route to the fort.

---

Reaching the Fort

After reaching Chamba Naun, you have two options:
✔ Take the foot trail, approximately 1.5 km, perfect for those who love walking.
✔ Or, follow the motorable road to the base of the fort.

Locals along the way are friendly and helpful, so don’t hesitate to ask for directions.

---

A Brief History of Kamlah Fort

According to Himachal Tourism, construction of the fort began under the reign of Raja Hari Sen.. Strategically located on Sikandar-Dhar, the fort was completed by his son Raja Suraj Sen in 1625.

Visitor Information Board displaying the History of Kamlah Fort in Hindi and English — Installed at the site for tourists. Photo taken on 16th April 2014.

Standing tall at an altitude of 4,772 feet (1,454 metres), the fort remained virtually invincible for years. Even the mighty Mughals hesitated to attack, fearing the natural defences of the place. But in 1840, the fort finally fell to Bentura, a general of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. By 1846, the fort was back under the control of the kings of Mandi.

The Legend of the Queen's Cave (Rani ki Gufa)

Queen's Cave (Rani ki Gufa) at Kamlah Garh — Now used for sheltering goats and sheep offered to Baba Kamlahiya

Local folklore says that when Ranjit Singh's army conquered the fort, the Queen, hiding in Rani ki Gufa within the fort, chose to leap to her death rather than be captured. Today, this cave serves a humbler purpose — shelter for goats and sheep offered to the local deity.

---

The Fort Today — History Weathered by Time

The approach to the main fort entrance is steep and rugged, giving you an idea of how difficult it must have been to build — let alone conquer — this mountain fortress.

Kamlah Fort, Sarkaghat, Mandi (H.P.) — Clicked on 16th April 2014

The Sikandar-Dhar mountain itself is unique, with sharp angular edges and near-vertical cliffs in places, naturally fortifying the structure. Though weather and time have taken their toll, I noticed repair and cleaning work underway during my visit in April 2014.

Layered Entrances of Kamlah Fort — A strategic defence against invaders. Clicked on 16th April 2014.

Inside, marble-tiled paths gifted by devotees add a touch of devotion amidst the ruins.

The Third Entrance Gate of Kamlah Fort, part of its layered defence architecture — Photo taken on 16th April 2014.

---

Baba Kamlahiya Temple — A Hidden Spiritual Retreat

At the top of the mountain stands a simple yet revered temple dedicated to Baba Kamlahiya, an ancient saint deeply respected by locals. Construction work was ongoing during my visit to expand the temple area.

Interestingly, animal sacrifices are now banned, and the goats offered by devotees are auctioned instead — a progressive shift I was glad to see.

You’ll often spot mischievous monkeys around the temple — a reminder to keep your belongings secure, especially fruits or small items they might fancy. I carried only my camera, and thankfully, they didn’t show much interest.

Baba Kamlahiya Temple at Kamlah Fort — As it stood on 16th April 2014

---

The Story of Baba Kamlahiya

Legend has it that Baba Kamlahiya and Baba Balaknath, both saints from Jammu, came to Himachal Pradesh in search of spiritual refuge.

Baba Kamlahiya's Idol enshrined inside the temple at Kamlah Fort — Sarkaghat, Mandi (H.P.). Photo taken on 16th April 2014

✔ Baba Balaknath settled near Shah Talai, Kangra, at Deotsidh.
✔ Baba Kamlahiya chose Sikandar-Dhar, meditating under a tree at the current fort site.

An elderly woman from the village used to offer him milk daily. One day, delayed by chores, she arrived late. When questioned, she grew angry and cursed him. Baba Kamlahiya quietly left, never to be seen again.

But his presence remained. A shepherd soon noticed one of his goats spraying milk at the spot where Baba meditated. The shepherd’s herd flourished, and villagers began to believe Baba had become one with the land.

They enshrined his memory with a statue under the old tree. Eventually, when the tree withered, a temple was built in its place. Over time, countless stories of fulfilled wishes have reinforced people's faith in Baba Kamlahiya.

Final Thoughts

Visiting Kamlah Fort is more than just a history trip — it's a glimpse into the spiritual and cultural fabric of Himachal Pradesh. From the weathered stone walls to the peaceful temple at the summit, every step tells a story.

For adventurers, history lovers, and spiritual seekers alike, this lesser-known fort offers a perfect blend of heritage and tranquillity.

---

Thanks for reading! If you’ve visited Kamlah Fort or have stories to share, feel free to comment below. And as always, stay curious and keep exploring!

A visit to Adi Purakha Brahma Temple, Tihri, Uttarsal, Mandi(H.P.)

Hi,  

how have you been? 

This is the third part of  the story of "Bhuntar to Sunder Nagar via Kataula" trip. In the second post the story of our visit to Kundakari Narayan Temple at Shayari village in Mandi District of Himachal Pradesh was covered.

First view of the Adi Purakha Brahma temple at Tihri Uttarsal, Mandi(H.P.) - clicked on 06-04-2014

After an adventurous descend from the Shayari village we started on the Bajaura -Mandi road and we reached at Tihri(Uttarsal) at around 2:00PM. We were told by a side walker that the Dev(Adi Purkha Brahma) has gone for a lunch meal to the nearby village so, we were going to visit the temple only.

Along a kachha road it was a total four kilometers of journey from the main road up to the top where temple was situated at Tihri. A group of boys sitting on the parapet boundary of the old temple welcomed us and conversed about the temple.

Front view of the old temple of Adi Purkha Brahma at Tihri, Uttarsal - clicked on 06-04-2014

They didn't know much about the temple either, however they told us about the old and new temple. Old temple was the one on the top and the new one was constructed at a 5 m sloped downward distance next to old one.

They told us that lord stays at the new temple and goes to the old temple only when someone comes with a purpose. Purpose of sitting at the old temple is to listen to the special queries and prayers of the people.

New Brahma temple built below the Adi Purkha Brahma temple at Tihri, Uttarsal, Mandi(H.P.) - clicked on 06-04-2014

Wooden temple walls are carved with different designs and there are four masks of a man(Brahma) hung on each wall. 

The new temple looks fresh and has a different opening/entrance than the usual entrances to the temples.

Stairs leading to the entrance on the roof of the New Adi Purkha Brahma temple at Tihri, Uttarsal, Mandi(H.P.) - clicked on 06-04-2014

There is a back view of the mountain of Parashar Rishi where the famous Parashara lake is situated. Mountain top was still containing the traces of the snow.

A view of the adjacent mountains from the varandah of New Adi Purkha Brahma temple at Tihri, Uttarsal, Mandi(H.P.)- clicked on 06-04-2014

I think this spot was a perfect one for the person who want to meditate in peace away from the noise and worldly matters provided, the basic needs are fulfilled.

There are basic facilities of water, current and transportation to the temple but for more than that one has to reach to the nearby places such as Mandi and Kullu. 

Our next stop was a road side Dhaba at Kataula where, we took our lunch meal and then next at our houses at Sunder Nagar.

To read part 1 and part 2 click links below:

Part 1 - A visit to Adi Brahma Temple at Khokhan

Part 2- A visit to Kundakari Narayan Temple

  

Thanks for your kind visit!

Bhuntar to Sunder Nagar via Kataula - part 2 (A visit to Kundakari Narayan Temple, Shayari, Mandi(H.P.)

Hi, this post is continuation as a part 2 of  "Bhuntar to Sunder Nagar via Kataula" whose part 1 takes you to the Adi Brahma Temple at Khokhan, Buntar at Kullu.

Our, me and Mr. Tarun Goel(tarungoel.in)'s  next destination was the diversion from NH-21 to a Bajaura -Mandi Road which took us to a single lane road connecting Kullu with Mandi district. Diversion is near to the bus stop at the Bajaura just at a distance of about 10- 15 m towards Kullu towards left of the NH-21.

A typical hilly village (Sheetla Temple on the Bajaura-Mandi Road), Mandi (H.P.) (Clicked on 06-04-2014)

• Kundakari Narayan Temple at Shayari (Mandi, H.P.)

On the way to Tihri we saw scenic beauty of the mountains loaded with Kail trees which look similar to Deodar trees and a numbers of villages at different spots which has their own beauty with their tilted roofs.

We read a sign board informing us about Kundakari Narayan temple at a distance of about 2 km.

A view of the adjacent mountain of the Shayari Village, Mandi, H.P. -clicked on 06-04-2014

 The distance was only 2 km but it was a Kachha road which could only be occupied by a Jeep at single time.

A side view of Shayari village, Mandi (H.P.) - clicked on 06-04-2014

Our thunder-bird(Bullet) seemed wider than the steep uphill way itself but somehow I maintained the courage to drive it to the end of the road reaching at Shayari(village name). We tried to enter through the back of Kundakari Narayan temple.

Back view of Kundakari Narayan Temple at Shayari, Mandi, H.P. (clicked on 06-04-2014)

I jumped to the reddish pink floor from the mountainous field and asked the lady standing if she was priest of the temple. She was daughter of the priest so, I asked her the reason behind the name of the deity of the temple.

Front Varandah of the Kundakari Narayan Temple, Shayari, Mandi(H.P.) - clicked on 06-04-2014

She was not sure but she said that the deity lord of the temple might have performed a numbers of havans for Narayan in Havan Kundas so, he got the name Kundakari Narayan.

Wooden carvings on the walls of the Kundakari Narayan Temple, Shayari village, Mandi (H.P.) - clicked on 06-04-2014

On the way back I refused to ride it down so, I video-graphed our way back down and you can watch the video on the Youtube with the link given above.

This was around 1:00 PM and we were on our way to next destination i.e. Adi Purkha Brahma temple at Tehri Uttarsal which will be covered in the next part of this series.
To read about the Adi Brahma Temple at Khokhan, Bhuntar, H.P please read here the part 1 of this series.

thanks for your kind visit!

Bhuntar to Sunder Nagar through Kataula- Part 1(A visit to Adi Brahma Temple at Khokhan- Bhuntar)

Hi, How you doing? I am very much excited to write the story of a short and beautiful trip. Mr. Tarun Goel and me has planned this trip a week ahead and on 05-04-2014 at 2:10 PM we left Sunder Nagar on his Thunderbird(Motor-cycle). Plan was to visit a numbers of temples at Bhuntar and on the way back from Bhuntar to Sunder Nagar via Kataula.

Sky was cloudy and on the way from Mandi to Pandoh it sprinkled few raindrops but we didn't stop. At Pandoh we stopped on road-side to click on PWD rest house Pandoh from NH-21 and then we stopped only at Bhuntar.

PWD Rest House Pandoh, On the way Mandi to Bhuntar (05-04-2014)

Our next stop was at Bhuntar where, we waited for Gajju Sir to come back from his office because, he had the arrangements for our night stay.

Beas at Bhuntar clicked on 05-04-2014

After a nice and lovely night stay with our dear Gajju Sir, we started our next day journey with our first visit to Khokhan village where this old wooden temple of Adi Brahma is located. When we are told about a Brahma temple the question arises, who and why did anybody build this Brahma temple because, in Vedic mythology Brahma is regarded as non-worship-able.

That is me standing in front of Adi Brahma Temple on 06-04-2014

Here are another views of Adi Brahma Temple at Khokhan in Bhuntar:

Front view of Adi Brahma Temple at Khokhan at Bhuntar (on 06-04-2014)

Inside views:

Wooden architecture on the walls of Adi Brahma Temple at Khokhan (Bhuntar, Kullu) - 06-04-2014

A close view of Adi Brahma Temple at Khokhan, Bhuntar, Kullu (Clicked on 06-04-2014)

Door to the Brahma at Adi Brahma Temple at Khokhan, Bhuntar, Kullu (06-04-2014)

The door shown in the picture above is hiding the statue of the Brahma and according to the Pujari(priest), door is opened only at the morning and evening hours of Aarti(worship hours).
When we inquired about the reason behind the worship of the Brahma, nobody gave us any good reason. They told that this temple is very old and they were following their ancestors.

A modern wooden architectured Veer-Nath Temple on the adjacent mountain of Khokhan, Bhuntar, Kullu (06-04-2014)

The picture below is clicked from the Veer-Nath temple which is situated on a little higher altitude than Adi Brahma Temple of Khokhan, Bhuntar, Kullu on a adjacent mountain ridge.

Picture contains the view of the Bhuntar Airport also.

A bird's eye view of Bhuntar Air-port from Veer-Nath temple at Khokhan Village, Bhuntar, Kullu (06-04-2014).

Well the next part of this story will contain the story of the other hours of the day i.e. 06-04-2014. 

Thanks for your kind visit!

A visit to Maa Murari Devi Temple at Sunder Nagar

Hi,

This was a motor-cycle ride from Sunder Nagar to a temple on the top of the mountains around the Sunder Nagar town known as, "Murari Devi Temple", dated 24th May, 2013. On the way, I asked few people for the way and they helped me with it. 

A Road to Murari Devi, through Kapahi, Leda (Sunder Nagar, HP)

No matter how many times you visit this place, you still love to go one more time. Here are few clicks of the short one day trip with explanations. 

This photograph was taken on the way to Murari Devi Temple. A kachha road on jungle, me and my motorcycles were only ones at the time this was clicked.This was a beautiful journey with the divine nature in the summer time so, the road was covered with the fallen leafs of the pine trees and shadows of the living ones.

Here is the sequence of places that you will come across on this road:

i)Sunder Nagar  ii) Kapahi  iii)Leda and after Leda you will observe few other small villages and road is totally Kachha road but, people are more than happy to help you. I reached here after asking the people whomever I met on the way. 

My HP 29A, 2968 in front rest house which you can hire if you want to stay at Murari Devi, Sunder Nagar(Summer, 2013)

This photo is of the rest house adjacent to entrance of the Murari Devi temple and can be hired on rent. That is my motor cycle standing at  the entrance of the rest house. If you want to stay here for night then first you have to book the rooms  at  the DFO office at Sunder Nagar. 

There are 3 to 4 rooms available. 

Stairs up from main Gate of the Murari Devi Temple, Sunder Nagar, HP

These are the stairs constructed for better reaching experience. 

Statue of Murari Devi, Sunder Nagar, Himachal Pradesh

This is a close view of the Statue of Murari Devi inside the temple. It is believed that the temple was constructed by the Pandvas of the "Mahabharta" at the time of their Agyatvas.

Side view Murari Devi Temple, Sunder Nagar,HP 

he photo above is a side view of the temple which, I clicked while circling around the temple. 

I am alone but, thanks to my camera. On the way back from Murari Devi Temple, Sunder Nagar, HP

That is me resting for a click on the way back from the temple. Dried pine leaves are not easy to control, I tried to dump them down but still few popped in front of the camera lens.

Jai Murari Devi,

Thanks for your kind visit!