The story of my Shri Manimahesh Kailash yatra 2016 is being covered in multiple parts.
The first three parts have already been covered, and this one is the fourth and the last.
In case you haven't read the first three, let me share the links quickly, and please note they are not lengthy to read, yet interesting for sure.
Part 3 - covers the story of our trek up to Dunali and the night stay.
Part two - holy bath at the Bharmani Devi temple.
Part One - night stay at Chamba Jot.
Now let me continue the story...
Morning at Dunali
The last night only sound that one could hear was that of a roaring rivulet called 'Dhancho khad,' which ran downwards parallel to the steep trek. So we slept like the horse seller sleeps after selling all of his horses.
When we woke up at around 7:30 AM, the air around us was vibrating with the sound waves of chants of lord Shiva. The hiking trail was already densely filled with the devotees of Shiva.
Many climbed up to the Manimahesh lake while a few went down to Hadsar, as we prepared ourselves for our own climb upward.
At Dhancho, the stream water was ice cold and clean, but it could be dangerous in case you slip, as the stream descends on a steep, rugged, boulder-filled bed and yet with a powerful current. I picked up my toothbrush and went near the spring water next to the shop.
At Dhancho, the stream water was ice cold and clean, but it could be dangerous in case you slip, as the stream descends on a steep, rugged, boulder-filled bed and yet with a powerful current. I picked up my toothbrush and went near the spring water next to the shop.
The free-flowing water was guided by a pipe and the force of nature, which we call gravity, from the stream to near the temporary shop. It was clean like distilled water, perhaps even more pure in a saintly sense, given that it flew near to the abode of Shiva - the Manimahesh Kailash.
The toilet facility was not available at Dunali. If it were there, perhaps I would've spotted the open human feces in the surrounding bushes.
Soon we entered the second Langar and then we ate something else. Eating heavily is not advised, so we took small meals only and tea. Dhancho had a temporary settlement of the Langar Bhavans and other shops, but had permanent toilets. I spotted more than fifteen langar bhavans at Dhancho itself, as I remember.
While we rested and refreshed, Ashu bhai and Shankar started a discussion about the cleanliness of the place with a supervisor of the Sulabh International. The same NGO maintains the toilets and bathing facilities at various bus and railway stations throughout India. The supervisor told that they maintain the cleanliness every day till the end of the official yatra dates, i.e., 9th Sep 2016, for this year.
After that, the shopkeeper who leaves the place later does not carry the plastic and garbage with them, and that creates the problem. Soon, the snowfall occurs, and all the debris remains here itself.
It was a real problem, and the government should keep an eye on this. From Dhancho, one can take the usual trek or a steeper one along the Bander-ghati. These two meet again after about two kilometers of climbing, near the Shiv-Gharats.
Langars would also be available at Sunderasi and Gauri Kund, and would be available at the lake itself. Drizzling had started when we reached the Gauri-kund, and there we waited for Ashu Bhai and Shankar, who had taken another steep path along the Bhairo-ghati.
The Dhancho Khad looks in its infancy here. Another narrow diversion takes to the Kamal Kund, which lies at the base of the Kailash mountain. And another one-kilometer hike along the main trek takes us to the holy lake of Manimahesh.
Today was the time to see this scene in reality. Manimahesh Kailash Parvat was in front, and Ganas were standing near the lake, some praying for blessings, some chanting while walking, and some while bathing.

At Dhancho
We decided to climb up to Dhancho and use the toilet facilities there. After climbing amidst the dense Deodar jungle that was on a ninety-degree slope, Dhancho was not farther than one kilometer from the last shop at Dunali. Gopal and I were ahead of Ashu bhai and Shankar, and as we were hungry, we stepped into one of the many Langars and ate some poori-channa.Soon we entered the second Langar and then we ate something else. Eating heavily is not advised, so we took small meals only and tea. Dhancho had a temporary settlement of the Langar Bhavans and other shops, but had permanent toilets. I spotted more than fifteen langar bhavans at Dhancho itself, as I remember.
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A talk with the supervisor of Sulabh International |
While we rested and refreshed, Ashu bhai and Shankar started a discussion about the cleanliness of the place with a supervisor of the Sulabh International. The same NGO maintains the toilets and bathing facilities at various bus and railway stations throughout India. The supervisor told that they maintain the cleanliness every day till the end of the official yatra dates, i.e., 9th Sep 2016, for this year.
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Dhancho - a temporary market. Clicked from the steep mountain trek of Manimahesh lake, 2016 |
After that, the shopkeeper who leaves the place later does not carry the plastic and garbage with them, and that creates the problem. Soon, the snowfall occurs, and all the debris remains here itself.
It was a real problem, and the government should keep an eye on this. From Dhancho, one can take the usual trek or a steeper one along the Bander-ghati. These two meet again after about two kilometers of climbing, near the Shiv-Gharats.
From Dhancho to Sunderasi and Gauri Kund
Dhancho Khad (stream) has to be crossed a few times after variable stretches along the trek. Crossings are mostly small temporary bridges, and police help in crossing them if its susceptible to danger.
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The pilgrims are trying to find the footsteps along the Manimahesh trek, 2016. |
Langars would also be available at Sunderasi and Gauri Kund, and would be available at the lake itself. Drizzling had started when we reached the Gauri-kund, and there we waited for Ashu Bhai and Shankar, who had taken another steep path along the Bhairo-ghati.
At Gauri-Kund
The path for the Bhairo-ghati diverges from the main path after Sunderasi, and the two meet again at Gauri Kund. It looks like a shortcut, but it can be very tiresome due to the steepness and narrowness. Gauri-Kund is the place where ladies take the holy bath. Kailash Peak becomes visible from Gauri Kund.The Dhancho Khad looks in its infancy here. Another narrow diversion takes to the Kamal Kund, which lies at the base of the Kailash mountain. And another one-kilometer hike along the main trek takes us to the holy lake of Manimahesh.
Camping at Manimahesh Lake - Once in a Lifetime Experience
After climbing the last stretch of the trek, we were welcomed by a gate on the northern side of the lake. Lake was surrounded by the temporary shops and pilgrims. On the opposite side of the lake, several tents of different colors were erected.
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Tents at the Manimahesh lake, 2016 |
It was a dream to sleep around the lake in one of those tents. Therefore, the first thing we did was to book a tent. After we inquired, the shopkeeper looked out of his head and pointed his finger towards three blue tents. He asked to choose any of them. The price was about 500 rupees per tent, in which we all four would accommodate comfortably.
Below the tents were the shops, which completed the circle of the shops around the lake. Between the shops and lakes, there was a two to three meters wide stone paved path, along which pilgrims were circling the lake. It was raining, yet few people were inside the lake, pouring buckets of holy water on their bodies.
We walked a half circle, and then we reached the tent and threw our bags inside it. In front of us was a cloudy sky, with nothing much visible other than the lake itself. Soon, Ashu bhai and Shankar joined us. Shankar had dared to take the bath in the lake, as he was hungry and wouldn't eat anything until he took the holy bath.
It is a pilgrimage of a difficult kind, as walking up this steep trek without anything in the stomach is not the job of the weak. Soon they went to eat something at the Langar while we stayed in the tents. Now and then, we would hear the chants of "Bham Bham Bhole" or "Har Har Har Mahadev," which did materialize the epic drama scenes from many TV serials.
In those scenes, generally the Shiva-gan or the Indra-gan are shown coming to Kailash Parvat, where Shiva would be sitting in the meditation pose. These ganas would be either in pain or in need of protection from some kind of demon.
Today was the time to see this scene in reality. Manimahesh Kailash Parvat was in front, and Ganas were standing near the lake, some praying for blessings, some chanting while walking, and some while bathing.
The difference between the reel and the real scene is that Shiva is shown in human flesh in the TV serials, while not here. Yet it seemed as if he was there, everywhere, in every soil grain, cloud, or water particle. We could feel the aura. Later, while we all were seated with a local who called himself a Gaddi, basically from the Bharmour region, the air was still heavy, and those clouds had not left the peaks of the Kailash Parvat.
Our ears got punched by louder chants of 'Har Har Har Mahadev' or 'Bham Bham Bhole.' Without the delay of a single second, we stretched our heads out of the tent and saw that, miraculously, a beam of sunlight had touched the feet of the Kailash Parbat. It was exactly 6:42 PM, and soon the rays would disappear.
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Miraculous beam of Sunlight on the feet of Manimahesh, Chamba 2016. |
I have seen the sun-rays falling on the Dhauladhar range after a cloudy or rainy day,visible from my home, but it looked different and divine. Sun-rays can not look more beautiful and divine at any other place than at the feet of the Kailash mountain.
Slowly, rays ascended up the mount and touched the "Aum" symbol formed at the heart of the mount and then disappeared. Thankfully, I was able to get a selfie and become a part of this divine scene at the Manimahesh Kailash.
That night, we talked about Shiva, shouted Shiva, chanted Shiva, and sang Shiva. There were other small gatherings that sang the devotional songs at night in the Chambyali, Kangri, and Mandyali regions. We slept inside the camp at midnight with five blankets and two sleeping bags. It might have rained at night, but we were safe and sound asleep.
Holy bath in the morning at Manimahesh Lake
Morning was cloudy, but energetic with the Shiv bhagats' chanting and roaring around the lake. Manimahesh Kailash was hidden behind the clouds. I couldn't dare to take the bath without the warmth of the Sun; moreover, it was drizzling.
We waited, and finally, at around 11am, the sun showed its shine. Till then, it hid behind the clouds along its path from the Manimahesh peak to the zenith. After packing the blankets and our bags, we rushed towards the lake.
One by one, we took the bath. It was cold, and after taking two complete dips inside the lake, I was out of the lake. Shankar took a dip, and Ashu bhai managed with the bucket. I didn't notice Govinda, but he might have done the same.
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Holy bath at Manimahesh lake, August 2016 |
Anyway, I felt a rush of heat after coming out of the lake water. It happens that we don't feel colder after dipping in water which is already colder than the surrounding air. Soon, we were packed inside the clothes again. It was time to say goodbye to Kailasha Parvat.
Way back down the Manimahesh Trek
I left with a heart deeply content and filled with new energy.
Roaring water of Dhancho Khad, Manimahesh trek 2016. |
We covered the fifteen kilometers descent in less than four hours, including a few minutes' rests and lunch at one of the langars.
from left - Ashu bhai, Shankar, me, shopkeeper, and Govida - Inside a shop on Manimahesh trek, 2016 |
Thanks!!